BETA PHOTO: The line of Dreamy Clouds on the big slab left of ...
Description
The route is located in the center of the large slab left of Three Finger Canyon about 1000 feet left of Cry Not. Pitch 1- Climb 5.8 face past two bolts to a large ledge. 50 feet.Pitch 2- A0 past two bolts to 5.11d to reach third bolt. Climb past 5 more bolts at 5.10+R to a stance and two bolt belay. 160 feet.Pitch 3- Climb a 5.9+ bulge past two bolts then easier ground to the third bolt. Climb 5.7 up and right for 50 more feet to the fourth bolt, and continue to the large ledge midway up the route. Belay from two bolts. 175 feet. Pitch 4- Move the belay right about 50 feet and start just right of some holes. Climb 5.10 past a bolt, then eighty more feet of 5.8x to another bolt, then 5.10r to the third bolt. Continue to a bolted belay on a ledge. 190 feet.Pitch 5- Move right on the ledge about 15 feet then climb up 5.7 protected by a medium sized cam to a large ledge with two bolts. 100 feet.Pitch 6- Easy fifth class climbs up to the ridge with a short section of 5.6. 190 feet. (no anchors)Pitch 7- Easy fifth class up the ridge to the South for a couple hundred feet to the summit. (no anchors)
Descent- Downclimb to the top of pitch 6, Easy scrambling to the north and then down leads to the top of pitch 5. Rap the route from there with 4 double rope raps.
Note- due to the softness of the rock, some bolts didn't tighten well. These are- 3rd bolt on pitch 2, belay bolts on top of pitch 4 (kindof tight), and the left belay bolt on top of pitch 5. All bolts are 4"x 3/8 Rawl. Route established ground up.
Protection
Quickdraws, long slings, 1 set camalots #.75 - #3. Two 60 meter ropes.
We did a new route to the right of this route Dreamy Clouds and rapped down Dreamy from the top of P5 . On the way down top topped the pitches 2,3,4,5.. Pitch 2 was very tough , great lead by the FA party. This route well deserves it's 3 stars.
Eastern Reef Slabs
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