1000' of Fun 

This was an awesome route. A most do if your in the area. Can't wait to get back their and do others.

Not to be a jerk or steal FA's or anything, but Mark Owen and myself free soloed this route in December of 2002. By the way Paul, I have been climbing many of your routes throughout the desert and they are fantastic. I don't know if you remember me or not, but we met in the Fisher towers some years back when I had met Jimmy Dunn there.

The rap is long and tedious due to the very low angle of the climb. We had to re throw our ropes several times on each pitch.

. To the Rappers ...You must have had fun.. Tip for today ...you don't throw your ropes down low angled slads ,almost impossible ...you take them down as you go...

What do you use for rap anchors? Are there bolts or do you use natural anchors? Meaning do I need to bring a bunch of webbing?

There are bolted anchors at each rappel/belay station. The route is also easy to downclimb for the most part, especially down low. When we did the FA of Reptilian Curiosity, we ended up rapping down 1000 feet of fun. We did a few raps at the top, and then just downclimbed the bottom pitches. Those pitches are pretty easy and low angle.

Okay, we just climbed 1000' of fun again this last weekend. At each belay/rappel station, all the webbing was cut off only leaving bolts. Whoever did this needs to grow up. First of all, they left all the webbing and rings stuffed in pockets and cracks on the route, leaving litter(which we tried to clean up). Second, if the route was 5.11, they would have left all those rappel anchors. Climbing should be a sport that people at all levels can enjoy. Just because they can downclimb 5.5 and 5.6 doesn't mean that everybody can or feels comfortable doing so. Get over your arrogance. Not only is 1000 feet of fun a good warmup to slab climbing in the Reef, it is a good descent route for Reptilian Curiosity and other routes on that formation. We replaced all the webbing and rings at the anchors so other people can descend this fine route easily. But whoever goes up next may want to bring webbing (please use mellow colors) and quick links in case more people with an attitude decide to make it difficult (and expensive) for everybody else.

We rapped the top couple and then got tired of dealing with the rope. So we decided to down climb the last couple pitches. And boy was I scared having a 200 pound guy above me. I just keep thinking he was going to fall and take me with him... But it's easy stuff and we made it. Goodtimes!

Thanks Ben for replacing the rap anchors. Unfortunately these days there are many dick head posers in the climbing community .Wish they would stay at Potash Road where they belong.

Me and my brother had fun on this route. I'm discouraged to have to remind my peers of leave no trace ethics. The modern day petroglyphs, pulling a bunch of grass off the big ledge at the top of P3 and a water bottle stuffed in a hueco pretty much shows that there are still "takers" on the planet. Leave it how you found it (obviously). We camped outside the canyon next to that scenic juniper and rock outcropping. I hope that continues to be a preserved, nice spot for other climbers.
Thanks for the bomber anchors. To whom it may concern: go do it!

Thanks for that last message! That campsite by the rocks and juniper is definately the one to use. Please keep it clean so we can have continued access! Camping inside the canyon near the petroglyphs should be discouraged! Last time I showed up at Three Finger Canyon there was a family there and the kids were scratching their names in the rock near the petroglyphs and I just about lost it! Anyway, as climbers, lets pick up after ourselves and others, and try to make as little impact as possible so the area can be preserved for people to enjoy!

Climbed this the other day, had a good time. Watch out for the American Death Triangle when adding slings to anchors. All of the rap stations on this route have been slung with American Triangles.I reslung a few of the anchors with the existing webbing left by other climbers and left a carabiner or two for rap links.

Don't blame me for the American Triangle. I don't set up anchors that way. I did replace the webbing on that route a while ago, but I left separate pieces of webbing from each bolt.

You mean the European Death Triangle!!! Has any body known of one these triangles to fail (anywhere) it having two well place bolts or bad ones for that matter???Actually we are now planning to put hand rails up all the slab climbs to keep up with the modern trend of ultra ultra safety .We also plan to have a helicopter on stand by for any sprained ankles etc.... The Staff.

Dear Paul, Ben and the gang(staff), Cheers for a fun route. It was easy to locate and a fun climb. I found the bolts fine and fearless, infact i found Lance the next morning and returned two of Ben biners' The view from the top was unbelievable. Thanks again and is there a 'kitty' to donate some cash for more rap bolts? Keep it up. E Walker

The directions to this route are no longer accurate as the "entrance" from I-70 no longer exists. You must drive the highway that heads south from I-70 (i believe it is the next exit west of Green River) for appox 6 miles, then turn right on to a dirt road. Sorry I can't be more specific but the canyon is visible from the highway. A local map showing Three Finger Canyon will be useful.

Found the route to be ok. Lots of 5.0 climbing and a short section of 5.6. My dog did the first pitch on-sight free solo. Then downclimbed it. The thunder in the distance spooked him so he was trying to find me. We did a walk off just east of the route with some 5th class spots. Much faster than rapping but a bit of loose rock.

To Greg D. Sorry you could not find the entrance from I.70.. but would like to inform you it still exists,we were there last week 21st March...nothing has changed!!.. Suggest you remove your comment regarding the road. However would be interested in your walk off.... did you continue up from the last pitch of 1000' 0f Fun through some loose looking grooves grooves? PS. If you cannot find the I.70 entrance (,I have yet to hear of anyone else having difficulty), be careful if you venture onto many of the actual climbs other than the very obvious 1000' of fun... glad your dog liked it.. Cheers

Yep, I confirm that the I-70 entrance still exists as of 3/23/08.

Alright, I stand corrected on the directions. Perhaps the "I-70" entrance does exist and we were just directionaly challenged that day. The only directions we had printed from this page states "from the I-70 entrance" did not give us directions to the "entrance". Since we did not have specifics of where this entrance was all other directions were useless to us. Could someone give specific direction to this entrance from lets say Green River? Does one take an actual I-70 exit or just pull off somewhere? We found a way in afer driving south from I-70 toward Hanksville a few miles. Sounds like there is a better way.

The downclimb is visible in the main photo of this route above. It is the boulder strewn gully just right of the route. After reaching the top of the route I believe I continued up and right (east) a little ways before getting into the gully. Then just took the path of least resistance down encountering some loose rock and a few short 5th class section. If you are not comfortable soloing short sections of 5.4 ish, the raps may be the way to go.

The exit is in a small valley just before the road hits the face of the swell. It's a dirt road that you need to enter from the left lane if coming from the Green River side. It's marked by the lack of an "authorized vehicles only" sign or whatever they use to discourage you from doing U-turns on interstates in Utah. If you hit the rest area at the base of the swell you just missed it. It's hard to see unless you know right where it is. Unfortunately if you miss it there's another 4 or 5 miles of road before you can (illegally) turn around.

That said, you might be better off coming in from the Hanksville road - it's probably less dirt road that way. When coming from I-70, you have to go well past the part of the road that is right next to the swell - first time I went there I was suprised that the road turns quite a ways away from the swell before you get to the junction leading to the route.

I was out there the other day and here's my shot at a description of how to get there. About 2 miles past the Hanksville exit going West is a median crossing with the "no unauthorized" sign. There is a pile of boulders in the median just past this crossing. Approximately 100 yards past the boulders is a second median crossing without a sign saying you can't be there. Take this crossing. As John P. stated you'll have to be in the left lane to make the turn. Cross the east bound lanes without getting crushed and it's straight forward from there.

Thanks Sqwirll, That's sounds pretty simple. Any suggestions of other worthy routes in the area?