The route takes a crack system on the left side of the south face. Not sure there would be any other worthy climbs on this feature.We looked at starting on a crack system right on the east arete, which looked pretty spooky, and there is a crack system to the right, but it does not reach anywhere near the ground. Pretty slim pickings, as features are few.Near the top of pitch one I pulled (after some wrestling) a haulbag-size block off. It was nearly at arm's reach above my head at the time, and as it slid off its perch I had a fraction of a second (before it built up momentum) where I could actually divert its trajectory just far enough away from myself and the ropes (Strappo, forewarned, was hiding round the corner). The explosion was awesome, the whole south side of the tower was wreathed in the dust cloud. Not so much a white-out as a buff-out. Don't be put off though; there were no other solid loose rocks anywhere on the climb. P1. Follow the crack (past one aid bolt) for 190' to a 2-bolt belay. This is a superb mud-nailing pitch; very long, very sustained and varied. Expect thin nailing, stopperheading, a few cams, and a few natural wires. The finish in the rotten wide slot is exciting, but then so is the rest of this pitch. (A3, 190') P2. Gain a very muddy mantel onto a shoulder. Posthole to a nice ledge and two-bolt belay. (A1, 5.5, 30') P3. Bolts and tricky pins head up and right to a final obvious slanting wide crack bisecting the west summit. Big cams work here (once the mud is cleaned out) (A2+, 70'). Strappo had to excavate about a foot of mud off the top to find "good" rock. When we left it, the tiny summit had three crappy bolts, and a register. No idea how long they will stay put.
Protection
Bring it all. Here's a rough idea: 4 Birdbeaks; 8 knifeblades/Toucans; 10 Lost Arrows; 3 Angles; 2-3 Spectra ice pitons; many wires (expect to hammer some) from small RPs to 1"; cams: 3 sets 1/2"-3"; 2 sets 3.5"-5"
The Mudstrosity
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