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The Weasel Formation
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Horus Tower 

5.8 C1

   

FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, John Glime. 16th June, 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.8 C1 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III
Season: Best in 100f
Views: 429 page views

Submitted By: Paul Ross on Jun 19, 2008


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Lads on top . First ascent of Horus Tower.Terrier ...


Description 

. Situated on the Weasel left of the central climb of Ozymandias. The detached tower in the shape of Horus the Egyptian Hawk God.A fun tower with great situations on the final pitch. The climb starts up the thinner right hand crack on the right side of the tower. P1)Climb a short easy chimney to a ledge then follow steep cracks on the right,odd free moves ,strenuous.( Now that its cleaned it might go free at about 5.10ish)The crack leads to a large sloping ledge at the gap between the tower and the main wall . Double anchors 160'5.8 C1/2 P2).Follow bolt ladder out left below the big roof to the exposed edge ,then straight up the face to a short slab ,climb this to a fine summit.80'5.6 C1. Register in cairn. Descent . Single 60m rope rap to the gap then double rope rap from top of P1 to the ground


Location 

On the Weasel formation just left of Ozymandias


Protection 

Cams for first pitch:- Double rack from 1/2" to 3" then three # 3.5. two 4" two #5 friends and one # 6 friend might be of use. Stoppers. Slings ,about 15 quick draws /biners. Two 60m ropes .



Add Photo Photos of Horus Tower
Climb like an Egyptian...

Climb like an Egyptian...

Route on Horus Tower.

BETA PHOTO: Route on Horus Tower.

Paul reaching the edge of the tower on Pitch 2. Photo Layne Potter

Paul reaching the edge of the tower on Pitch 2. Ph...

John jumaring start of Pitch 2 . photo Layne Potter

John jumaring start of Pitch 2 . photo Layne Potte...

View from the summit looking south. photo Layne Potter

View from the summit looking south. photo Layne Po...

Looking up to the Weasel from the camping area.. A). Summit of Horus Tower  B). Ozymandias.

BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the Weasel from the camping area.. A...

What's next...... Layne with scope. Perfect desert climbing weather at 99f..

What's next...... Layne with scope. Perfect desert...

Paul starting pitch 2 Photo L.Potter

Paul starting pitch 2 Photo L.Potter

On Summit looking north

On Summit looking north

John following Pitch 2. photo Layne Potter

John following Pitch 2. photo Layne Potter

John following pitch 2

John following pitch 2

Telephoto of the summit

Telephoto of the summit


Add Comment Comments on Horus Tower
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By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 19, 2008

Actually a very fun route. You won't be disappointed.

By Leonard Coyne
Jun 29, 2008

Paul,

Looks brilliant. I'll be stateside come Sept 08 with my mate (who you met Mick Haffner). Let's hook up and climb in the Swell,

Best Regards,

Leonard Coyne

By Paul Ross
Jun 29, 2008

Dear Leonard . Will be nice to see you both in the fall.However must point out that your team is obligated to provide the refreshments.Its an old San Rafael tradition. Actually the only reason we climb there (including the summer months) is in order to get a really good dehydration.So.....bring plenty