BETA PHOTO: Placing new anchor bolts on Teeter Totter.
Description
Climb up a pillar (which moves, climb light and carefully) to a stance. Then climb a #1 camalot sized crack in the corner to a two bolt belay anchor below a roof. During the first ascent, I climbed the left side of the pillar via a difficult offwidth. Since the first ascent I have (and it looks like most people have) climbed the right side of the pillar via thin fingertip jams. The pillar does move and pinches your fingers when you are jamming. Climb light, to avoid having the pillar fall on top of you.
Location
This route climbs up a pillar to a right facing corner a couple hundred feet to the right of Private Pizza.
Protection
Cams from small to #1 camalot sized camming units.
I returned to this route on Nov. 18th 2007 and replaced the anchor bolts, and moved them a few feet higher. I still need to go back and clean up the bolts on the old anchor. I will try to get down there soon and patch the old holes. If the weather is good I will do it this coming weekend.
As of 11/26/07 the anchors have been replaced and the old anchors patched. The pillar does move, so best to climb light on this route. I don't really worry about it tipping over, having climbed it 5 or 6 times, but if it did tip over, it would for sure kill the climber (and the belayer) so be forewarned. Above the pillar is a great layback crack.
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 27, 2007
Ben, or anyone, any idear what the route is to the left of Teeter Totter? It starts with a fingering, kinda mungy lower angle crack which gives way to a wider groove ending a nice bolted anchor on the left (from a flat stance).
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