Nape's Needle 

Gorgeous looking tower, but...

I am looking for any advice from whomever climbs this next. I got to the "C2" section (looks to be about 10 feet long) when I had 2 placements blow out when I weighted them (this is above the last bolt on pitch 1 in the thin cracks.) I got in a great nut, then a great lowe ball, but then it ended for me. I had everything from lowe balls to aliens to hb offsets, but after not wanting my third try to blow decided to head down to my truck to get the pins. Once down, the ethics police came to mind and I realized that the tower wasn't going anywhere, and that pounding on a route even in the desert after it has gone clean wasn't cool, at least until someone gives me more beta or I have the blessing of the FA team. I'll take either! Failure sucks.

Hi John. Sorry you had some problems on P1. I would prefer you did not use pins in these cracks, we rarely if ever use pitons on our first ascents. ( odd times drilled angles in very soft rock that will not take a bolt). We think in desert sandstone if one gets to a situation where even the smallest stopper will not fit, perhaps only a knife blade piton,its preferable to place a bolt rather that destroy the rock with placing and removing pitons . . We ourselves only use wire stoppers and cams. Perhaps you need to loose some weight?..Stick at it and try some stoppers first.... Best Wishes Paul Ross

Thanks Paul.

I appreciate the feedback. I look forward to going back and giving it another try. After falling, I sometimes start to get tunnel vision and don't see other options.

For the record, 175lbs., can't blame the weight...