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Bottleneck Peak
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Alaska Gold 
Tippin The Botttle 
Zoomerang 

Alaska Gold 

5.11 A3

   

FA: Ben Folsom & Pete Lowney Sept. 26-27 1998
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.11 A3 [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade IV
Views: 284 page views

Submitted By: Ben Folsom on Jan 28, 2005


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Description 

The route starts below a large corner system with a large roof about 100 feet right of the start of Woody's Roofs near the left side of the North Face.

Pitch one aids up some funkiness making long reaches past loose flakes, then into the awkward, thin corner. Below the huge roof move left on two bolts (maybe drilled angles, I can't remember) to a bathook or a rivet? Then into a good crack and a few more feet to a natural hanging belay above the roof. Pitch two is a splitter thin hands/wide finger crack in great rock to a small belay ledge with a bolt. Make a huge pendelum left to join Woody's Roofs third pitch which is A1 or 5.10 maybe to a good belay with bolts. Continue up the final 200+ foot 5.10 offwidth of Woody's Roofs to a large ledge with lots of rubble. Then scramble 3rd class to the summit.

I think we had 60 meter ropes and were fine for the offwidth pitch.

Descend the Normal North face route (the descent for all bottleneck peak routes).


Protection 

5 blades, 5 arrows, 3 baby angles, 3 5/8 angles.3 sets tcu's, 2 sets of cams to #3 camalot, with some extra .75 camalot size. 1-3.5, 3-4, 2-5 camalots. 1 set stoppers.



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By James Garrett
Feb 28, 2006

Good on you, Ben....wild looking route!