Rumor has it the FA hammered an old nut tool into the crack and used it as an anchor to lower off of. It can still be seen about 6 feet above the bolt anchors.
Someone has added a PUSSY bolt about 8 feet below the anchor. This used to be the best part of the route making you actually think about the remaining 10 feet of climbing from GOOD gear to the end.
Yeah, that bolt is super lame. The great thing about that route was getting to where the crack runs out and stemming and face climbing to the anchors. The #2 camalot you get is only about 15 feet from the chains and it's bomber. It must have shown up in the last few years, because the last time I did that route was probably two years ago and it was not there then.
Nice, varied route with good stances to place gear. I'm not sure why it gets a lesser quality rating, I thought it was great. Yeah, the bolt's pretty lame. It only gains you maybe five feet from a bomber cam placement, over a clean fall at the end of the pitch. I did clip it though ;-).
By Josh Ewing From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 8, 2005
Wow. Wouldn't it be great if someone could go up there, chop that bolt, scar the rock and pay homage to the balls of the guy who did the first ascent?
I agree that the bolt is poorly placed. It's only 2.5 feet above a good yellow alien placement. If you're going to put in a bolt, make sure it's in a reasonable place.
But come one. Are we really going to scar the route further by wasting someone's well-intentioned effort to make the route safer?
hell is paved with good intentions. With a decent patchjob the rock won't look scarred. The cam placement is bomber and the fall is pretty clean. Man up and climb it without the bolt.
Is this on the south facing wall near the entrance to Pine Creek canyon. If so I suspect that the first was done by Rush Bowers in about 87 or 88. I bet he would not want the bolt but would be thankful of the anchors. He (we) left some really chingas anchors in the area pre-1990, most will not take an outwards pull. Feel free to replace. kent
Hi Swell dwellers, It was my understanding that when Dave Anderson and Lynn Wheeler climbed this, they found no anchors and their drill bit was dull and shot. They ended up pounding in a nut tool above where the present anchors presently apparently are and found no others. They called the route AFH as they were truly gripped rapping down. In a letter from Kent, perhaps he or friends climbed this previously and those anchors were even worse and whatever might have become of them. I don't know who placed the later lower bolts.
Pine Canyon
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