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Pine Canyon
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Anchors From Hell 
Burgerdier General 
Lite Not Solid 
Old Bushmills 
Pickles and Milk 
Potluck 
Rabid Muslim 

Rabid Muslim 

5.11

   

FA: Dave Anderson
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.11 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 507 page views

Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on May 30, 2004


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Mitch Hogsett working his way past the roof. 2005


Description 

This is a right facing dihedral with an obvious roof about 25 feet up, left of Old Bushmills and right of Lite Not Solid. Scramble up large boulder close to the start of Bushmills and belay from block at the base of the climb. Climb 25 ft of good hands to roof. Traverse to lip, pull past lip and enjoy tight hands and off fingers for 60 ft. after 60 feet the dihedral throws a tightening bulge for about ten feet(crux). Once past the bulge keep it together for the varied climbing to the anchors. One of the cleanest routes in Pine Canyon. Doable with a single 70 meter rope.


Protection 

Numerous pieces in the tight hands rattly fingers range. Handful of hands and a few down to a blue tcu and a few up to a 3.5 camalot. Two bolt anchor.



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By crackroach
Sep 27, 2004
rating: 5.11b

One of my favorite climbs in the Swell. Nice, varied, pumpy. Just watch for rope drag around the first big roof. A good trick is to lead the first part on one rope with lockers on the harness. Then drop that rope and lead the rest with the second rope.

By James Garrett
Jun 6, 2008

The FA of this was also done by the late Dave Anderson