Ozymandias takes a very direct line up the south face to one of the unclimbed summits of The Weasel. It is a demanding and committing route up an impressive face. After the overhanging crack on pitch 3 retreat would be difficult. It starts on the right(east) and behind an 80' detached pinnacle at the foot of a line of cracks and grooves in the centre of the face.
P1) A perfect crack using small to medium cams leads past a roof and right into a groove. Follow to anchors on top of a large flake. 100' C1 5.8. P2) Climb the groove above, mostly a thin crack is climbed to near its top to a bolt. Move left to a small ledge, and then easy climbing to anchors in an alcove below the obvious overhanging crack. 70' C2 5.7. P3) The crack is mostly 1.5 to 2 cams with some large near the top. Continue over the lip for about 20' to anchors 65' C2 5.8. P4) Climb the groove and awkward placements past one bolt to anchors at the entrance to a chimney. 65' C2 5.8. P5) Go up the chimney and then right onto the top of a pillar. One bolt up a short overhanging wall to natural belays. 60' C1 5.6. P6) Easy climbing to the summit. 80' 5.4. The register is in cairn on the right hand summit.
F.A. Andy Ross Paul Ross (Alt Leads) May 3 2004
Descent: It would unwise to attempt to rap back down the route. From the top of the route go about 40' west to rap anchors. Do a short 50' rap to the shoulder. From here scramble down right(west) for about 150', and then back left to a big lower ledge to its end. Rap anchors are are 10' below the ledge directly above the light brown summit of the huge detached pillar that has a falcon head on the left side of the south face. Rap 160' to the west side base of the pillar, and then another 150' to the ground.
Protection
Double set of cams from alians's to Friends#6 Extras of 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5.Set of stoppers Two 60m ropes.
Note the description to this area in the Desert Rock Guide II is INCORRECT. Should read: From the San Rafael Bridge, go south for 6.1 miles(NOT 2.2) to a road on the right(west) with a cattle guard. Go 1 mile to a road on the right. Go 6/10 mile to a road on the left. Continue 1.8 miles to a campsite at the end of road. The path to the routes is up talus to the right.
The Weasel Formation
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