BETA PHOTO: Resurrection Spire, San Rafael Swell. F.A. 16th Oc...
Description
Resurrection Spire.300' III 5.9. C1. This spire is on the left end (west) of the large spires above the camp site. The central spire also has a route on its north side . It looks a very good line ,probably done in the 80s by as yet unknown climbers. . There are several approches ,the easiest is by a stone shoot below and right of the three smaller spire formation. Then walk below these smaller spires to the far end,and north side of the big spires to Resurrection .(one will pass the 80s route up the central spire). Continue to a chimney with a hand crack on its inner wall. P1) Up the chimney and the hand crack to anchors below a fine slightly overhanging 1" crack.100' 5.9.(A old failed attempt will be see about 30' to the right of this pitch) P2). Follow crack and groove to anchors 80'C1. (may go free at 5.11+?). P3)Move out left onto slab,then up right to steep wall,then left into open groove, (one bolt pro) that leads to the shoulder left of summit.60' 5.8. P4). The first step is climbed using three bolts ,then continue up second step to a fine summit and register.60' A0 5.7. Descend the route via rappell.FA. Paul Ross . Layne Potter. 16th Oct 2003
Protection
Friends:- Three Alians. Four #.05 Four #1 Four #11/2. Then Three of each up to #4. Medium to large stoppers. .Easier to rap with two 200' ropes
To get to this Spire . Drive 6.1 miles south from the San Rafeal River bridge to a road on the right (west) with a cattle guard. Go down this for 1 mile . At 6/10 of a mile take right turn .Follow to the Wash then left up the wash for a few miles untill spire formation is seen on the right
This is actually Tibia Tower, first summited in 1989(?) by Dave Lunt and Bert Stolp. The route up the north face is High Road to Tonapah and saw a couple of attempts by Dave, Bert and Scott Lunt (myself) prior to the first ascent. Scott and Steve Walker did second ascent in 1990(?). Sorry for the confusion on years, I am an old fart. The "failed attempt" on Resurrection was actually our first short attempt done in 1988 with Kyle Ricketts. We thought it might take too much bolting so we moved to the lovely dihedral on the north face. Also, Dave and I attempted one of the shorter spires across from Tibia but retreated as I recall due to a storm (or lack of huevos ... my memory is selective). We didn't promote this area because at the time we thought we could keep the San Rafael to ourselves. Times have changed. I can provide more details if people are interested. I think we rated High Road to Tonapah 5.9 A2. The name Tibia Tower comes from an accident that occured when we first "discovered" the area. A large boulder slid down on Dave's ankle while we were scouting, breaking bones with glee.
If you are asking about Resurrection ,the chimney part of first pitch is easy .The 5.8 Pitch 3 has a bit of run out...I do not think the party that submitted a couple of the photo's got passed pitch 3 ?
Dead Mans Spires
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