Idiot Wind 

FA:  Friedrichs 1991 Type:  Trad Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 803 page views Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on Mar 22, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Deaun on the lower portion of Idiot Wind. Photo b...

Description 

This discontinuous thin crack is located in the middle of the Dylan Wall. There is a three bolt anchor visible from below at about 80'. To the right is a long sustained crack in a left facing dihedral (Blood on the Tracks). There is a somewhat broken boulder directly behind the route. A pod at 8' takes a #3 Camalot. From there move up the thin crack with good rests to plug gear and ponder your next moves. There were no moves that felt 11c and the route is extremely well protected. Enjoyable from start to finish.

Protection 

One each 1-3 Camalots, plenty of TCUs or Aliens. Slider nuts work well on this pitch but are not essential.

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Marc Rusin on Idiot Wind. Photo by: Frosty Weller