Mostly one pitch routes on a south facing cliff. This wall gets almost as much sun as the Dylan Wall. Many good routes exist in a short span, starting on the left with "Lite Not Solid" and "Rabid Muslim". There are a couple routes left of those, a hundred or so yards away, near the prow of the buttress, facing the road. There are also several modern bolted lines up aretes between the cracks.Several interesting camping opertunities lie along the road leading to this crag. One in particular, that lies next to a heinous looking overhanging off-width crack.
Getting There
Two miles north of the bridge is a large "Y" shaped canyon on the right hand side of Buckhorn Wash Road. There is a primitive campsite here, and a four-wheel drive road that winds into the canyon. If just going for the day, it would be best to walk from this point (Don't forget to close the ricketty gate behind you). Hike less than a mile following the right side of the "Y" and look immediately left for the dihedrals of "Burgerdier General" and "Once is Enough" near the prow. A little further is right-facing dihedral with a sharply cut right leaning overhang halfway up (Rabid Muslim).From here it is a 5-minute hike up the talus.All in all, an easy and enjoyable approach.
Anyone have info on the new two pitch route left on Lite Not Solid? It begins with 4 bolts through the cutler then climbs a ever-widening/ overhanging crack, tight hands to fists to the first set of anchors, draws still hanging,then proceeds through a bolted offwidth pitch above. Is it a project or are the draws left for the community? Looks sweet and sharp.
Louis, I put up that upper offwidth/chimney pitch, I did the entire route as one pitch skipping the hanging belay in the middle of the wall. It seems like it increases the grade of the route by a letter or two and ends on a killer 8" ledge 135 feet from the start. The hanging anchor only had a piece of webbing and a biner on the right anchor, so I left a 2' sling and biners on the left to back it up. Hopefully, I'll put some permanent quicklinks on this hanging belay this weekend, the 2' sling is over a year old. There's another route 40 feet to the right of this one (which I don't know anything about) and then Lite Not Solid further right.
There is a lot more than routes on the "Pine Wall" (or whatever the wall with all the cracks is called) than listed here or in the old guide book.
Mad props for whomever is adding really nice routes there. There is a great beginning area with a 5.5/5.7, a nice steep wide practice route to the left of that, 5.9+. There is a great 5.8 that starts above the chipped KRGA. And to the left of that there is a SWEET chimmeny/double crack love fest, I love this route. I love the varied movement, it's not like the rest of the wall, plug-and-chug so to speak. It sports bomber gear and great anchors. Kudos!
Thanks for the kudos, Tyler. I put up those climbs and another 5.9 on the wall around the boulder to the right. It's a really good climb for someone just getting into crack climbing. That double crack chimney is my personal favorite too, but I've seen a few good climbers struggle on it and tell me it's not their favorite. The funny thing about these cracks is the easier they are, the scarier and more labor intensive they were to clean off loose blocks. The 5.5 took me half a day to clean all the loose rock off of. I also put up some climbs further to the left of Burgerdier General. The first one around the corner is a two-pitch climb you should get on, the first pitch is a .10c that has just about every size of jam on it from fingers to a squeeze chimney. The second pitch is an .11+ thru a roof ending on super tight 2's. To the left of this is a great hand crack in a leaning/ramp corner that's way, way cool, not sure who put this one up, but I imagine it's one of the SLC crew, seemed like .10+, then to the left of that one is a 150' .10b that has a bolt marking the start. Clip that do some sport moves and get into a hand crack and then into this crazy canyoneering style chimney that takes really good gear until the last 60' where it's really wide and bolt protected. Can't wait to get on your route across the canyon this winter! There are also 5 more routes across the creek on the Calf Wall, a 5.9, 5.10-, 5.10, 5.10+, and something that looks like .11 or so.
In my opinion (which I have many if you guys haven't been able to tell yet) it speaks volumes when a climber of Darren's caliber takes 1/2 a day cleaning a 5.5 for OTHERS to enjoy.
Thanks for the beta, that 10b canyoneering thing and your 2 pitcher sound like fun! I'll report back.............
Pine Canyon
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