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Assembly Hall Peak Bottleneck Peak Calf Mesa Cinquenta Tower Coal Wash Dead Mans Spires Dog Pond/Road area Dylan Wall Eagle Canyon El Sombrero Frolic Wall Head of Sinbad North Lone Rock Lower Buckhorn Wash Pine Canyon Private Pizza Wall Red Canyon Smith Cabin. Nothern Reef area Torres de Polvo Vertical Smile Wall Weasel Formation, The Window Blind Peak and Mother Hubbard's Shoe |
DescriptionThe San Rafael Swell is a large anticline that is split in two by I-70. Much of the documented climbing north of the interstate is concentrated within a few miles of the BLM campground at the junction of Cottonwood Wash Road and the Mexican Mountain Road. This campground has tables and a toilet and charges $3/person/night. There are many free camping opportunities along both of these roads and within a quick drive/bikeride of the toilet. There is no fresh water, and firewood is nonexistent. The largest concentration of routes is on the Dylan Wall two miles east of the campground on the north side of the river. The Mexican Mountain Road (to the Dylan Wall) is easily passable by two-wheel drive vehicles unless the road has been washed out. Eric Bjornstad's Desert Rock (Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell) offers a selection of climbs and an impressive history and geology lesson that should not be missed. While this area does not offer an extensive amount of established routes in comparison to places like Indian Creek, it has a sense of gradeur and seclusion that makes it every bit as enjoyable. Getting There30 miles west of the interstate exit for Green River, take exit 131. Make two rights and follow I-70 back east for a few miles then north for 20 miles to the San Rafael River and the campgrounds. This road was in excellent shape for two-wheel drive traffic (10/02). The road continues north up Buckhorn wash, or once across the bridge the Mexican Mountain Road (signed) goes east along the river. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for San Rafael Swell (north):
Horus Tower 5.8 C1 Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240 feet, Grade III The Weasel Formation
Ozymandias 5.8 C2 Trad, Aid, 6 pitches, 440 feet, Grade IV The Weasel Formation
Life During Wartime 5.8 A3+ R Aid, 3 pitches, 430 feet, Grade IV Lower Buckhorn Wash
Toviah Tower 5.8+ Trad, 4 pitches, 550 feet, Grade III Eagle Canyon : Toviah Tower
Unknown Handcrack?? 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Private Pizza Wall
Private Pizza 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Private Pizza Wall
Resurrection Spire 5.9 C1 Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300 feet, Grade III Dead Mans Spires
Haagenschlong 5.9+ C1- Aid, 3 pitches Lower Buckhorn Wash
Bob Can't Climb 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Dylan Wall
Old Bushmills 5.10 Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Pine Canyon
James Tower 5.10 A1 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 200 feet Lower Buckhorn Wash
The Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer 5.10 C2 Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 290 feet, Grade III The Weasel Formation
Anchors From Hell 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Pine Canyon
Lite Not Solid 5.10d Trad, 1 pitch, 160 feet Pine Canyon
Zoomerang 5.11- Trad, 4 pitches, Grade IV Bottleneck Peak
Rabid Muslim 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet Pine Canyon
Idiot Wind 5.11c Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Dylan Wall
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ Trad, 3 pitches, 450 feet, Grade III Bottleneck Peak
Blood on the Tracks 5.12 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Dylan Wall
Featured Route For San Rafael Swell (north)
Tippin The Botttle 5.11+ UT : San Rafael Swell : ... : Bottleneck Peak
Tippin the Bottle is located on the North face of Bottleneck Peak. 50' right of Woody's roofs, and 20' left of the Langdon Route. It follows a beautiful crack system straight up for three great pitches with a short, chossy 4th-class scramble to the summit.Pitch 1: Climb a sandy handcrack aiming for splitter roof. Stem out past the wild thin-hands roof crack and pull into the "Banana Splitter" an arching finger-and-hand crack for 30'. Reach anothe...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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