BETA PHOTO: The Solstice, from a vantage point past t...
Description
South-facing, The Solstice is a great winter sport crag, particularly for moderate routes. The majority of the routes here are in the 5.9 to 5.10 range, with a handful of .11s and one specimen each of 5.6 and 5.7.
The rock is limestone (Kaibab, according to Goss) with amazing texture due to exposed chert knobs and edges in a wild variety of sizes and shapes. There is also an abundance of single-finger pockets, with the occasional larger pocket appearing here and there.
The whole crag starts out lower-angled and gently curves upward, getting steeper as it goes. There is a gentle bulge in the middle section, through which the harder routes travel. The raspy texture makes the lower-angled sections a bit nerve-wracking, but the routes are closely bolted, enabling you to keep at bay the fears of a geological flaying.
Getting There
From the Woodbury Roadturn off travel 2.8 miles to a dirt road on the left (2.9 miles, according to Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah & The Arizona Strip, Second Edition). Goss describes crossing two cattle guards; there are actually three—the guidebook apparently doesn't count the guard immediately off the highway. In any event, after crossing the third cattle guard, take the third dirt road on the left.
With 4WD, or a high-clearance 2WD, travel a quarter-mile or so to an obvious parking area near a wildlife cistern (You could drive another two hundred yards with an appropriate vehicle). In a standard passenger vehicle, you'll probably want to walk over the rough section.
From the parking area, follow the road uphill towards the crag. When the road ends, continue on the faint trail until a low cairn marks the start of a switchbacking trail, marked occasionally with cairns, that leads to the base of the wall.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Solstice:
By Hayden Eatchel From: Salt Lake City, Utah Mar 1, 2009
Unless no where else or to cold to climb i would avoid this area at all costs. The rock is soooooooooooo loose and the routes are so long. 100ft of choss. If for some reason you do venture to this area wear a helmet and stand as far away from under the climber as you can.
"100ft of choss"—You say that like it's a bad thing :-)
You must have gotten on different routes than I did. I knocked off one small rock the whole time, and that was while being lowered.
By rick gardiner From: Grand Junction, CO+Sammamish, Nov 17, 2009
I wouldn't agree with those statements. I did several of the routes ropesolo at The Solstice Wall in february 08 and thought they were fun! I don't remember any loose stuff. And I had the place all to myself.
I'd have to agree with Perin. It was all tight pockets and edges for me. Did you do the .12 in the middle of the steepness? The one with the cool fist jam in the Hueco? Part of the top of that was the only loose stuff I saw on the wall. It seemed like that part of the wall had seen a lot more water in general and maybe that's why? who knows? I still think its a cool crag and a lot of fun for groups with a wide variety of ability.
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