Dede following the route, enjoying the great sands...
Description
This is one of the best routes on the wall. It is very continuous at the grade. Follow a line of 12 pitons that are painted green to belay in a hole in the wall. The start climbs from a sandy fiction slab to steep edge climbing. The 4 or 5th ring piton is broken, so a long sling is useful for a tie off.
I have not climbed the 2nd pitch, but it leaves the hole passing a few pitons to a crack system to the top of the wall.
By Ken Heiser From: Boulder, CO Feb 8, 2005 rating: 5.7
This is possibly the best 5.7 face/sport route I have ever done. Super pro, great moves, and great rock.
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Dec 2, 2005 rating: 5.7
I didn't find any green paint (nor any other color) on the pins at the bottom so I ended up starting on a line just to the left of the bottom of Pygmy Alien. However several pins up I noticed some green paint flakes on a pin and jogged right. I did miss the pin with the broken ring by doing so.
The anchor in the hole at the top of P1 is 3 drilled pins with webbing and screw links on the right side of the hole.
A friend and I did both pitches of this route this past weekend (Feb 11, 2006). Fun route, but some comments:
i) Be careful to follow the LEFT crack after exiting the cave and traversing at the start of pitch 2. The right crack seems more obvious after traversing out of the cave, but the correct crack is around a corner from start of the obvious crack.
ii) Be careful about heinous rope drag on pitch 2.
iii) the SW Utah Guidebook says to simply work your way north at the top to a downclimb. Ummm...this downclimb is not trivial. There are two rap stations, but you need to downclimb after the second rap. It was not clear to us how to do this. Parts of the downclimb were quite sketchy, and we had to rap the last 20 feet anyway. Is there a third rap station? Or can some tell us how to downclimb safely?
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