Looking down from under the second roof at Kip Hen...
Description
For exact approach look in Rock Climbs of Southwest Utah by T. Goss. Start is behind a bush, just right of a dihedral. 5.9 climbing up varnished edges to crux over the first roof.
Excellent belay station for second pitch, however significant rope drag over the first roof for the second ascender. Second pitch is a little more crimpy with a tougher second roof crux. Two rappels down with single rope or walk off if you want a long hike down.
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Nov 19, 2007 rating: 5.10c
this is a stellar route. very easy climbing with 2 roof cruxes. the first roof wigged me out because it isnt part of the wall itself. its suspended. i kept imagining it falling apart on us.
By Daniel Lay From: St. George, UT Nov 30, 2008 rating: 5.10d
Awesome route. Easy climbing first pitch. 1st roof I would rate a 10c, but second roof looks like a 10d or possible 11a.
By Craig Martin From: Park City, UT Nov 30, 2008 rating: 5.10c
I agree, awesome route. I had a hard time with the first roof. On follow I didn't get it clean. I thought it was awkward and pumpy, bad combo for me. Second roof I found to be easier and onsighted it easily. Go figure.
I love this route - a little history to help w/ the route description though...when the route was originally bolted the first pitch was the easiest, including the roof, however around 2005 some climbers jumped on it after recent moisture had come through the area and key jugs were broken off of that roof. This significantly changed the route and made the first roof harder than the second. These changes make the climber go through the fist roof using specific holds with a sequence that isn't the most natural. Back in the day though the jugs were nice and you could easily match - taking away any need to lead into that section w a specific sequence (if I remember correctly you lead into it with your Left hand reaching high from those super nice under clings) with the route trending to the right away from you and then back left once you get up over the roof.
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