According to the Goss Guide this is one of two 3-star climbs at Chuckawalla Wall, and according to a Nov '03 Climbing magazine article, this climb is supposedly the 'premiere route on the wall.' These are at best a measured compliment and at worst a back-handed insult to the remaining climbs in the area. While it is a *good* route, there is nothing classic about it. Then again, this wall is a summer morning or Winter afternoon playground, not a roadtrip destination. This route is the 8th from the right on the wall. Rather than counting bolt lines, find the climb by locating the hanging right-facing dihedral up high on the wall, just right of center. Spot the chalked line on the arete to it's left side and follow that to the ground. That is the line of this climb. A slightly powerful move down low (upper body strength dependent) gets you off of the ground past the first clip (10b?) from where you can proceed past 5.10 climbing to the crux near the 3rd clip, moving left to a not-so-good hold. (12a) Then finishing on easier but pumpy climbing (5.11?) to the arete and beyond for a total of 20 meters to the chains up top. The line has 7 bolts leading to chains up top.Hard to on-sight, less difficult to red point once you know what to expect of the crux holds and go for it instead of messing around to find the best ones.
Protection
A rack of draws, plus something up top for the chain anchor.
When rating rtes those guys and most other people give stars per cliff. That rte is 3 stars for that cliff only!!.Personally I don't give a damn just thought you might need some guidance on such matters.
An okay climb with super polished holds....similar to climbing on frictionless limestone
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Jun 11, 2008 rating: 5.12a
I really enjoyed this climb. Yes, its polished but oh well. The crux was at the 3rd bolt. the moves up high are really fun. There are some very good holds with a big move at the top. i loved the exposure on this climb. you also have a rest around just under the bulge. Loved it!
Chuckawalla Wall
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