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Black Rocks


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Submitted By: Guy Humphrey on Oct 28, 2004
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 37.1550  Longitude: -113.6072 
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Closed March 15 through June 30 MORE INFO >>>

Popular toproping area with a minimal approach. C...


Description 

These short, black, basalt walls are located very close to town. A warm micro environment on otherwise cold, sunny, winter days, the area is quite popular.

The area was developed with bolted sport lines in the mid-nineties by Tupper and Goss, but trad lines were done as early as the late eighties by Olvesky.

The routes are easily divided into a southeast-facing Sunny Side and a northwest-facing Shady Side.

The majority of the routes on the Sunny Side are in the 5.8 to 5.10 range. The Shady Side routes range from 5.8 to 5.13, with the largest number in the 5.10 range.

This is a great place after a big rain when all of the area's sandstone is wet, and when it is cold out.


Getting There 

From downtown Saint George, drive north on Bluff Street (don't turn left towards Santa Clara). Drive approximately 1.5 miles past the turn to Snow Canyon State Park, passing the parking area for the Chuckawalla trailhead on the left.

Park here and walk north on the bike trail a hundred feet or so, then branch left onto the canyon trail. The trail crosses a fence with a tortoise barrier.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Rocks:
Casual Slander   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Sunny Side
Moses Had a Stick Clip   5.10a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Sunny Side
Galactic Cannibalism   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Sunny Side
Oh My Hell   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Sunny Side
Browse More Classics in Black Rocks

Featured Route For Black Rocks
Off the Handle 12b and Jumping to conclusions 12c are on this piece of rock

Flying off the Handle 5.12b  UT : Saint George : ... : Shady Side
Amazing basalt climbing through very technical crimps pockets slopers and side pulls. Great crimper crux to chains!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT


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By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jan 18, 2007

Is it possible to divide this area into the sunny side and shady side, and then group the routes accordingly? It would make it a lot easier for users to plan a trip (rather than looking at every route to determine where it is).

I sure wish these cliffs were taller...

MM

By DanielRich
Nov 19, 2008

I was curious, alot of these routes need slings to toprope. Does anyone know how long the slings need to be?

I was planning a road trip to visit some relatives in st. george and wanted to take some of them climbing while I was there.

By Ras Fett
From: Park City, UT
11 hours ago

I find it strange that people complain about bolted cracks at Crawdad but not here. Seems like the same set up as Crawdad except the fact that you have to pay to climb in Crawdad. Both places are still fun to climb, love the sic nar pockets.