This is a remote area of high adventure climbing. Mexican Hat is one of the easiest desert summits to reach, and the approach is casual. Valley of the Gods is notorious for loose scary climbing, and this beautiful area is pretty much deserted. Well worth the long drive - you'll have any route here to yourself.
Getting There
From Moab, take US 191 south past Monitcello and Blanding to US 163. Head west towards the town of Mexican Hat. The Valley of the Gods road is marked, and Mexican Hat is totally obvious on the south side of the highway. This is not a short drive - it is several hours from Moab.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Valley of the Gods/Mexican Hat:
We climbed the Prayer Stick (5.10+) at Comb Ridge. Just a few miles west of Bluff, the climb goes up the south side of a pillar (@200')in 3 pitches. The middle pitch is the crux. Bring at least 3 #3, 2 #4 and 1 #5 camalots to be safe. It is called a lieback by Cameron Burns in his Selected Desert Climbs. I think the follower could but I did it as an OW. It felt solid 11. Two bolts at the top made it a lieback at long last. I wouldn't do it again due to the portions of soft rock, otherwise, very exciting. Manuel