This route starts up the West face directly under the window (the obvious hole in the rock). Climb up some good cracks (5.8) with a couple tricky moves and lots of jamming to the window. From here, jam out the overhang on good hands that quickly turn to tight bastard hands in the dihedral (5.10+). Follow this until you get to the bolt ladder protecting the chimney. You now must climb the weirdest thing in the world (5.10+ squeeze) - you will be horribly confused, but it's some of the best climbing in the desert. A couple unroped mantels on the summit (avoid the chipped edges on the first one for extra style points) lead to the top, and a gazillion new bolts (?). One of the best towers in the desert. Two double-rope raps get you down.
Protection
Bring a standard rack with a few extra #1 Camalots.
I have never climbed anything as funky as the O/W section on the third pitch of this route. Half your body is on one side of the tower and half is on the other, it is an amazing position. Absolutely one of the best desert towers around.
One of the best towers around? Whoa! Easy there! Whoa!
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 30, 2007
I noticed some strangeness on this climb when I did it.....which was with Lori Graff in the early 1980's. I believe to the left of the crack you climb on pitch one, there is a bolt ladder of studs with no hangers;...maybe the original way of the first ascent? We got our ropes stuck too....that was irritating. These towers in this beautiful canyon/valley are fantastic. Cool summit of a beautiful tower in a wonderful area......all good stuff.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Nov 20, 2007