Walk steeply out of wash to right side of tower to a large pine below a big chimney. From here scramble left for 60' along a sloping ledge to the start of the route. Bolt belay.
P1. Two bolts and a pin(in place) lead out of a V niche and over a roof, two more bolts then a bit of a run out to a bulge where cracks begin, which are followed to the anchors. 80' 5.8+ C2
P2. Steep cracks and grooves to an anchor in an open chimney. 120' 5.9 C1
P3. Up chimney to big ledge. 100' 5.9
P4. Two bolts to reach a crack and chimney system that cuts through the formidable final 350' of the tower. After a short soft crack section the rock improves. 100' 5.9 C2
P5. Follow widening cracks and grooves in good rock to where the chimney cuts through to the other side of the tower. 150' 5.10 C1
P6. Wriggle through the narrow chimney to single bolt belay at the start of the last chimney pitch of the 1987 Toula route. Follow this really nice pitch to large ledge just below the summit. 150' 5.8+
P7. A couple of boulder problem moves and then easy slab to the top. 30'
This route may go all free, pitches 1 and 4 being the main problem.
One can descend by the original descent, or after the second rap new anchors on the edge leads to a big ledge(rap bolts on the far edge)at the top of pitch 3 East Face. From here two raps to ground. F.A. Paul Ross. Jeff Pheasant. Var.Leads.
Protection
Three sets of friends/Metolius from #1 Metolius to Three #4 Friends, Three #5 Friends, Two #6 Friends. Set of stoppers. A total of 11 aid/pro bolts where placed on F.A....
We did this tower in the end of April and would recommend it if you were looking for some adventure. There are a few things I would like to say. 1st-We linked the first two pitches into one 200' pitch. the rope drag was not to bad and if i did the route again i would link them again. 2nd-On the real pitch 3 we got off route by climbing the crack in the back of the chimney when the route really climbs the crack on the left side before you go deep inside. 3rd-Some how we moved to far right on the real pitch 4 and got off route again. we acually found another chimney were you could walk through the tower and look down the other side. Try to stay on route it was not fun getting off route 2 pitches in a row. 4th-The last chimney is run out. one bolt and one piton in 150'. leave the rack with your belayer or atleast thin it out. 5th-Even though we got off route twice, we did the route in one day. 6th-Brad has our trip report on his website, it also has some really good pics. http://www.piquaclimber.com/past/texastower/texastower.htm I hope this does not scare anyone away, the route is a good outing.
Texas Tower
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