This route RULES! Pitch 1; Right facing crack system with the 5.11 lieback. (85') Pitch 2; Climb an O Wth crack past a drilled piton, then more O W crack (5.10+) to rap station. (80')
Location
Climbs the W face of the cliff around the corner left from Sunset Tower. It's a little less than 2 miles past the main highway, after you turn onto State Highway 313, and it's on the right (north) side of the road.
Protection
Lots of cams;...3 or 4 each of the smaller cams, (1-2"). Large cams for the O W.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 27, 2007
This climb is fantastic; one of the best crack pitches near Moab, and could hold it's own at Indian Creek. I tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Greg Epperson tried to lead this pitch, but didn't make it. Kyle Copeland took a couple of big drags from his camel cigarette, grabbed the rack, cranked into the lieback position, and SENT! Kyle, (once again), saved the day. We had a great time. This is an endurance climb that requires strength, stamima, technique, and a cool head. It's awesome.
By Pete Gallagher From: Manitou Springs, CO May 28, 2007
I completely concur with Todd on this route. This is, by far, the best line along State Highway 313, and is one of my favorite routes north of Moab. The first pitch is stellar, and the second is stout! The route was put up during the year when Earl and Katy were living in Moab and working on their book Canyon Country Climbs. It's somewhat unusual in that it actually is climbable by mere mortals, unlike some of the other wild lines they put up during that period. In the near vicinity, routes like Mill Levy, Stand and Deliver, and the Gang Plank come to mind.......I've gotta wonder if any of them have ever been repeated.
State Highway 313
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