This tower looks so spectacular as you approach from down below coming up the Sand Flats Road. Adventure climbing! Drive up the road farther than seems necessary and park just before a section of the road that is bulldozer scraped slickrock. Stay high (east) on the approach or else you might find yourself either hiking an extra mile or making precarious sandy slab moves.
The photo existing on this site shows the easy slab approach to the very base of the route on the North West side of the tower. Since the belay off the ground offers no reassurance if the leader falls, slot a solid stopper from the ledge at the base of the route. This will prevent either one or both of you from falling the 60 or 70 feet down the steep slabs of the west side of the tower.
The first moves on the climb are somewhat rotten and dicey and hard to protect comfortably. I was NOT leading, but Dave Mealey was and he was very gripped. He did not want to risk a fall on any of the gear he placed in the first 30 feet.
After moving through the dirty rock, Dave placed a solid trust-worthy cam and continued to climb through to a section of the tower that you can stick your arm through. No joke, you can slap five to a climber on the south route! (called Black Elvis)
The top out is a bit awkward. Make some interesting moves under the roof of the "hammer-head" to clip a bolt on the lip. Commit yourself to the very do-able moves over the lip and on to the summit.
The slings on the east edge of the cap-rock summit might not be of rap-worthy quality, so bring webbing to back them up if they look bad to you. We double-rope rapped the east face visible in the photo here.
For those seeking an adventure and who are confident in their ability to read and climb this less than perfect Navajo sandstone, Elvis' Hammer is an excellent short 1-pitch route that offers a wonderful panoramic view from Castleton to Island in the Sky.
(Also of interest, see the Rhino's Horn)
Protection
One set of friends (or cams), stoppers, at least one quick draw for the bolt just below the top out. Bring webbing just in case existing slings look bad.
In regards to the previous comment: are you sure you're not referring to the route on the other side (south) of the tower? The route Hormones in Waiting (on the north side) really did seem like the difficulty was 5.10. Who cares anyway.
Excellent fun! This route is 5.10 and protects well including the first move. The rock is soft especially near the bottom and is, therefore, scary and exciting; however, it is possible to have a good piece in front of one at all times. A standard desert rack - doubles on everything and one 4 Camalot - will provide good protection. Long slings especially near the top is a good idea to avoid rope drag. There is a pin and an old star drive bolt at the overhang. We added a rope to the anchors which consists of an old bolt, a drilled angle, and a thread. Henry Lester
This is a great route! Though a little loose and heady down low, I felt the rating to be close enough. Maybe 10+/11a would be better? I fell at the last bolt but as soon as I found the holds the move was not too bad. All in all I found it easier than the hike, but that's another story.
Elvis's Hammer
RSS Feed
