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Dewey Bridge area
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Greed - Dirty Deed 
Loathing- Less clothing 

Greed - Dirty Deed 

5.6

   

FA: Tristan Higbee, 3/14/09, solo
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.6 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 114 page views

Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Here's the formation with the route marked.


Description 

This route isn't super classic but is a fun little jaunt. Plus it's a tower. Sort of...

Start up a slightly chossy seam that opens up for a cam placement or two. Gain the big ledge, get a few more cams in, and mantle the horizontal pillar sticking out of the base of the fin proper. Place a nut (take your nut tool to get all of the sand out of the crack), make a move or two, place the red Camalot down and to your right, then make a couple more moves to the top.

Getting to the ledge is 5.6, the mantle is 5.easy, and the rest to the top is 5.easier.


Location 

The formation is to the south of Fear and Loathing, along the same ridge. The route starts on the west face at an obvious seam.


Protection 

I used .4 (purple,) .5 (green), 1 (red), 3 (blue), and 4 (old style purple) Camalots, plus a #5 Stopper. The #4 Camalot wasn't necessary but I had it with me and figured I'd place it. There's a sling and a quicklink around the top of the formation. I'd recommend taking a longer sling (the one I used was tied out of a 9' piece of webbing) so that it can go around some better rock a few inches lower...



Photos of Greed - Dirty Deed Slideshow Add Photo
The route from the ledge, right before the mantle move.

BETA PHOTO: The route from the ledge, right before the mantle ...