Very very steep scary nailing on sub par rock. Someone on a subsequent ascent drilled angles/bolts next to the seam and then pulled them. Some of the holes were patched and angles were left in the others (glued in). Pitch one involved tons of shallow stacks and a few tipped out beaks- pendulum left off a beak (shallow) to some good gear in a right facing corner-more stacks to a bolt- and out the roof on nuts, beaks, angles and a hook. Good belay.
Pitch two involves hooks to a rivet ladder (occasional hook) to more of the same with bigger gear. Hanging Belay
pitch 3?
Location
next route left of Artist Tears
Protection
Leeper Z nailers (all sizes), beaks, tons of angles, sawed offs, hooks, rivet hangers, cams to #3 camalot, screamers.
Replaced Pitch 1 anchors (all stardrives w/ leeper hangers are now 1/2" or 3/8" 5-piece RAWLS) and all lead bolts during a solo. First pitch is close to 120'. Stumps, Beaks, and leeper Z nailers were key. Patched a few holes as well...
The "rivet" ladder starting pitch 2 are small (1/4" or smaller) 5 piece Rawls....Smalest RAWLS I have ever seen....
There are two bolts leading off the belay to the right into a thin seam. I dont think it would be any worse than what you have done to get there already. It did not look like it had been nailed, but there could be anchors on top...who knows....I would think it had been done though. Be kinda wierd if it just stopped. Probabily wouldn't need any heavy drilling.....Looks like it would take thin stuff.
Cool to hear this finally went. When we attempted the FA, I remember stacking a leaper z, two angles, and a knife blade, all tied off in a shallow hole in the seam. I couldn't get them to stick until I had them tied off and while gently waiting them I tapped each in as far as I could. With sand coming out of the placement (like sand through an hourglass) the whole time I was on on it, I drilled a baby angle and we bailed. The line we left fixed swung in the breeze for what seemed like years. We were gonna call it Tears For Fears... but since we didn't complete the route the naming rights go to whoever first finished this sick nightmare.
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