BETA PHOTO: View of tower- Loathing is the tower to the right.
Description
This small formation is a fun, short climbing outing if in the area. P1- start up loose, blocky chimney and head left when possible on low angle ramp. This was a pretty moderate pitch (5.3?) and felt comfortable to solo.-50ft P2- Jam 5.7 handcrack for 15ft, and head right to obvious ledge. Clip pin and make 1 aid move (step in etriers) to top of formation and rap anchor. -40ft You can now sit back and take in views of the colorado river, and the surrounding desert landscape-you will likely not be disappointed....
Location
From Rte. 128 (River road) head north on dirt road a few hundred feet upriver of Dewey bridge. The road has a sign indicating a junction with the Kokopelli Mountainbike trail. Drive through Cattlegate and continue about a mile until the tower comes into view. Road becomes rough near the towers, so park before switchbacks. Route is on west facing side of formation. Warning: Tower is labeled incorrectly in Desert rock III book.
Protection
Single set of cams, 60m rope, 1 etrier (or over-the-shoulder sling would work).
I did a variation to the first pitch. Not sure if it's been done before. Judging by the amount of dirt and sand I cleaned out of it, I would guess not. Call it Loathing Direct, maybe? It starts directly under the second pitch and goes up an obvious flaring crack. I french freed it at 5.7 C0. It would probably go free at 5.9? I wasn't feeling that adventurous, though...
Fun little tower. Pretty sandy, but an easy tick. I soloed it and I had some trouble finding a good anchor at the bottom for the rope. I ended up using a second rope to tie off a tree that was pretty far away and then slung and clove hitched a natural hole in the rock at the base of the direct route.
There are two fixed pins, a few slings, and a quick link and biner for the anchors. Everything looked solid.
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