Sorcerer's Apprentice Left 

FA:  Jimmy Dunn Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11c [details] Length:  2 pitches, 280 feet Views: 84 page views Submitted By: eric dixon on Sep 15, 2007 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The Sorcerer's Apprentice.

Description 

Pitch 1 - Squeeze up the wide flake to a stance (5.10 and optional gear belay), then continue up the left-facing corner with stemming and thin jams to a big ledge (5.10+). Belay from bolted anchor. A long pitch or can be broken into two pitches after the squeeze start.

Pitch 2 - Climb up the steep to overhanging finger crack in the left-facing corner past a few drilled pins to the top of the pillar (5.11c). Belay from fixed anchor.

Descent - (1) Single rope rappel to big ledge, (2) walk off to the left or do a double rope rappel to the ground.

Location 

Route starts on the left side of the pillar.

Protection 

(2) set of Camalots from #.4 - #4, extra finger and tight hands sizes, (1) set nuts, (1) set wires

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The final pitch.

The first pitch squeeze.