Todd Gordon on El Secondo. Photo: Todd Gordon coll...
Description
This route is on the north side of the River and quite visible from the main bridge leaving Moab. The right-facing dihedral is eye-candy for all climbers, and the anchor is visible without gettin out of your car. How can you resist? Pitch one;...Approach from the left;..mostly scrambling, bu there is an exposed step across and easy 5th class climbing to a bolted belay at the base of the dihedral. Pitch 2; Fingers and Hands (5.9) lead to a bolted belay and rap station. This climb is cool and fun and worthy; a fun adventure if you got an extra hour or two.
Location
You can see it from the main bridge over the Colorado River as you leave Moab going North. It's on the N. Side of the Highway.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 23, 2007
The other climbs on this north side of the Highway (Other than Barney Rubble, which is down the road a piece), are The Coup (5.10-), Canyonlands by Night (5.10), Fun Ramp (III 5.9 A2), a Lenard Coyne free route? (Near the Fun Ramp)....and probably more?.....I would like more info on these climbs by those in the know.....I've only done the El Secondo, and I would like to do more here....(Close to town, short approach....stuff us lazy bastards like...)
Hey Todd, Leonard here, hope your doing well. There are 2 climbs myself and various partners have put up over there:
Trail of The Navajo - about 200 meters L of fun ramp. Easily seen from the campground a mile or so up the river. This is the large L facing corner directly across from the campground. Starts in the L facing corner on the ground, then face climbs up and L to the huge L facing corner system. Need everything from a black alien to several large pieces. 8 pitches 11D (could probably be reduced to 10 or 11- A0). Can either rap the route (real easy to get ropes stuck), or walk off an endless sea of slabs with difficult route finding (do not do this in the dark/dusk). Killer climb, comprable to Astroman (in a desert sort of way). Topo at Pagan.
The Hyaena - about 200 meters right of the fun ramp. Cool nine pitch free climb up a highly improbable wall. Up the slab (bolts) to a vague R facing corner (more bolts, 13- or A1), face traverse left to another R facing corner, left yet again to another right facing corner (the side of the big hanging buttress). 9 pitches 13- (could be reduced to 5.10 A0) I think there is a topo at Pagan's.
(Bjornstad has topos of both (if he can find them))
ALSO
Left of Hyaena Dave Mealey et al put up a cool 4 pitch aid limb w. some nice splitters up high. Lots of bat holes (I think). Looks to be A4 ish.
Approach all of these either via hiking from near the bridge or via boat (sort of fun, take PFD's).
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