Looking across to Dolofright from Lighthouse Tower...
Description
Dolofright: a two pitch face climb up the blunt arete along the right side of Dolomite Spire as seen from the road.
Begin from a comfortable ledge on the notch between Lighthouse Tower and Dolomite Spire (see approach directions for Dolomite). P1: Hard right off the deck. Climb up and right along an overhanging bulge (protected by three pins) using incut crimps, clip a bolt, and step left along a horizontal to the arete. If you found these moves difficult, get ready. Continue up the face and arete past two more bolts to a good stance immediately below the crux: a really awesome (but reach-dependent?) sequence using two side pulls and (seemingly) no feet. Clip a fourth bolt, perform a difficult mantle, and then run it out a ways along the arete on scary gear (two yellow Aliens in a flaring slot) and scary holds to more bolts and a great belay ledge. Many sections of 5.11 on this pitch. P2: Climb up off the belay over ledgey terrain and dicey holds 25' to a bolt. Repeat this for 3 more bolts (hardest/scariest move comes about ten feet above the fourth bolt) to an anchor on the summit. Mostly 5.10-. Descent: From a second anchor on the far side of the tower you can get down in one clean rap with double 60m ropes and 10' of downclimbing. You can also stop at the high notch between Dolomite and Big Bend Butte if your ropes are shorter.
Dolofright is an incredible route, especially when you consider that Tom Gilje bolted this thing on lead, but Fred Knapp must have been on Crack when he said that it was the best Wingate face climbing he'd ever done. There are many great, difficult sequences, but they are constantly interrupted by terrifying sections of climbing on flexing holds. Falls are not necessarily clean on this climb, and I felt that both pitches are deserving of an R rating. That said, the position (especially on the lower crux pitch) is awesome and the summit is great, but this is definately a route for true desert rats.
Protection
One or possibly two yellow Aliens (or equivalent), one or possibly two #1 Camalots, and a dozen draws/slings. RPs may help psychologically.
My partner, a Moab local, suggested that Dolofright had probably only seen a half-dozen ascents at the time and will probably improve as the loose holds are stripped off - I just pity the person who does it.
Dolofright is a certified desert classic and has seen many dozens of ascents, if not more. Crux pitch is kind of spicey, but definitely not 'VS' (which I assume means X-rated).
i talked to tom on the days he was bolting thisthing. he was out of his mind with fear and its attraction. he would comment on the fact that some of the holds were expanding and took a strange glee knowing it was going to bite some one in the ass. he had a concern about a possible fall on one of the pitches. a tyrolean was set up from light house to the top of dolomite tower on the day of its fa.
This past fall I went back and climbed Dolofright a second time - almost two years after I posted it here. It was just as terrifying as the first time only I was fortunate enough not to fall this go round.
The one thing I did appreciate more this time is the quality of climbing - the moves (first pitch at least) are sustained and cerebral. The first pitch probably has at least 4 5.11 cruxes (some of which are safe and some of which aren't). I found a #1 Camalot to be essential, and the yellow alien (and a 0.3 micro camalot) provided some psychological pro.
Next time I will only bring wires, 2 #1 Camalots, a 0.3 Camalot, and quickdraws for this route.
Its early in the season, but I feel confident in calling Dolofright 12-. Over the years I'm sure a few of those things have broken off and rounded over. As per the R, a lot of routes get one... this route deserves it.
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