This route is a great lead for the intermediate leader who is not yet ready for many of the 5.10 desert climbs. When you look up at the River Road Dihedrals, the route is the most obvious splitter with rappel slings in the right side of a chimney about 85-90 ft up.
Begin with easy face moves on rock of poorer quality. Find a stance and place stoppers to protect the moves into the slot with the protectable crack. After placing an obvious .75 size camalot, continue up the crack from thinner hands to perfect hands before a roof. Pass the roof and begin the wider second half of the climb. Fairly easy big hands to fists lead up to a final bulge and easy dash to the anchors in the chimney. This route has many options for protection... give yourself options if you're unsure.
I felt like it was easier (and more scenic) to belay from the anchors... after tying off long you can even peek over the lip and watch the progress of the second.
Rappel: was able to make the soft sand off a single 60 meter rope, which indicates that the route description is incorrect in the Desert Rock II guide book.
Try it. It's a well protected route wich offers a good lead for the intermediate climber, and an excellent top rope for beginner to intermediate crack climbers.
After doing this, try Bloody Knees for a longer more sustained and wider climb. If you do Bloody Knees, remember that it requires a larger rack and two ropes to rappel. (Hint: bring wide gear!)
Protection
Smaller stoppers to protect off the ground. Set of friends, with a couple extra camalots in the .75 to 2 range. Used a 4 friend up high, and a 5 friend is optional.
As of 5/5/03, the key sidepull used to get into the crack has broken off. This might put the crux about 10 ft. off the deck.
Good crack climb for the grade. A 4 or 4.5 Camalot is useful for the final 20 ft. Also, I believe this climb is called River Road Dihedral East in Knapp's Classic Desert Climbs and maybe Bjornstad's guide as well.
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