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Big Bend Butte

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Big Bend Butte

Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Views: 818 page views

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Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire from the wall ab...


Description 

Big Bend Butte is the mesa immediately left of Dolomite Spire and the Lighthouse Tower, when viewed from the road. There are quite a few routes on the formation, the best of which are the Jay Smith beauties Infrared (5.12-) and Clearlight (5.11+ R).


Getting There 

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Head along the base of Lighthouse and Dolomite to the Butte.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Big Bend Butte:
Infrared   5.12-     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   
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Featured Route For Big Bend Butte
The Infrared buttress, Dolomite Spire, and Lighthouse Tower at the end of the day.<br /><br />Infrared is the right-most of the three obvious lines on the buttress.

Infrared 5.12-  UT : Moab Area : ... : Big Bend Butte
An overlooked gem of a tower route! When looking up at the Butte from the road, three splitters are visible on the right side of the buttress. The thin, thin one on the left is Clearlight. The obvious one in the middle (a 6-8" horror) is Dolomite Wall, and the rightmost one is Infrared.P1: Begin in the first crack system left of the corner formed by Big Bend Butte and Dolomite Spire. It is a stemming slot up broken rock and roofs to a wide-ha...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT