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Midnight Frightening 

5.12b

   

FA: Herb Crimp, July 2008
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.12b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Season: Morning Sun, Afternoon Shade
Views: 284 page views

Submitted By: Billy Smallen on Jul 28, 2008


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Description 

Start on the left first bolt below a giant flake right of Schoolroom #1 (the right bolt is a 5.11b variation called Sweating Like a Hooded Rapist). The crux is right off the ground so you may want a crash pad. Start in thin crimps that don't let up until you hit the flake, awesome moves! Once you reach the flake traverse right and place a #2 camalot or a #3 friend in the pod and then move right. After placing another #2 Camalot (just as the flake jogs upward) do a huge undercling pullup and move right, clip a bolt (a kneebar may help for clipping) then traverse right to another undercling where you can get handjams (and a #1 Camalot) then you may want to place a 0.5 camalot where the crack constricts. Traverse farther right where you can get a 0.3 camalot in a pod at your knee, then climb up clipping a bolt, to the anchors!


Location 

This route is the first route right of Schoolroom #1, one climb left of Sweating like a Hooded Rapist and 2 climbs left of Smoke Filled Rooms on a giant flake that trends upriver from 15-40 feet off the ground.


Protection 

3 Bolts, 2 #2 Camalots, 1 #0.3 Camalot, 1 #0.5 Camalot, 1 #1 Camalot