This route starts to the right of "Shoot up or Shut up". Follow the flake up to the crack. At the top of the crack (look for a bolt) move left and climb up to the chains
By Tombo From: Boulder, Colorado Apr 24, 2008 rating: 5.10+
I followed this pitch and thought it was really hard for the grade. Lots of laybacking and strenuous right off the deck. Good rest after first crux then what I felt was the layback crux if you have normal size fingers. Great pitch - continuous........ 5.10+ or harder (at least on that day.)
Excellent route. Strenuos right of the deck. You can protect this section but it will be even more strenuous as you would be placing from an awkward sort of lieback.
I agree with Greg. The start is hard but close to the ground. It is much easier to just boulder through that section, then get some good pro in and continue up.
I wish that I had seen this page before I climbed it. I didn't know that you are supposed to traverse left at the top. I went straight up and had the soft rock with all the rope grooves break in my hand and hit me in the head, sending me falling back into a pretty nice whipper.
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