This unique line provides a good adventure up a climbable arch, and fun rappel. Do it for the uncommon positioning, not quality of rock climbing. P1- Make awkward move up loose handcrack. Continue up sandy crack placing gear when possible to 2 bolt anchor (one bolt is missing hanger- supplement with cam)- 60 ft P2- Continue up sandy, low angle crack until lieback is encountered. Some large blocks await you at the top, so tread lightly. Try to find some decent gear, than head right on face to 2 bolts leading to anchor. My partner continued up crack above blocks, placed gear, and downclimbed to bolts (Seemed a little safer).-90 ft We rapped from here, but book mentioned 3rd pitch (did not look too inviting). Anchor on top on P2 is set-up for easy pull after free-hanging rap from arch.
Location
Jug handle arch is located on the northwest corner of Long canyon, 15 miles down Potash road from U.S. Hwy 191. A road sign clearly marks the spot. Scramble up to the start L of the route.
Protection
Standard rack-few extra finger sized cams useful. 2 ropes for rappel.
Add PhotoPhotos of Jug handle arch-Handle with care
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1
BETA PHOTO: Start of Pitch 2
Looking down slab from top of pitch 2.
It's a wrap...
Add CommentComments on Jug handle arch-Handle with care
this route to the first rappel anchor can be done in one 160' pitch. bring 3 sets of finger sizes to #3 camalot, especially blue tcu's. thought the crux was sustained and the pro was chossy. harder than 5.8 I thought. I continued past the rap anchor to continue up the arch. In the book it says 5.4 X... I tried, checked it out and IT'S SKETCH. down from the rap anchors.
Wall Street South
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