This is one of the classic must-do moderate routes. It almost always has someone on it or in line (sorta like Supercrack at IC). And it's definitely worth the wait. Expect a sustained climb with three definite parts, and good rests in between each - it's harder than it looks, and the cruxes are pumpy.
Reach the climb about 350 feet (less than .1 mile) past a large break in the otherwise solid wall of Wall Street. If you pass a long (several hundred feet) section of lower angled slabs, you've gone too far.
Lieback and jam a left-facing corner (with a couple of face features for variety) at the right end of a 3-car turnout for 80' to good anchors on the facing wall. Rap the route.
Protection
Standard rack to #2 camalot, small to medium TCUs and chocks, and a pink tri-cam is useful off the ground.
Fall of 2003. I found this to be a great first desert lead. In fact it was the first crack I ever climbed in the desert and the first real ( I think ) hand/finger jams i've done. Next time I'll use tape. I'm starting to understand the OW! Anyways, there's excellent protection all the way up and plenty of places to rest and fiddle with gear. Would recommend this to all first time leaders.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 5, 2003 rating: 5.9-
The crux is at the bottom and protects well on a few med/large stoppers or TCU's. Take a #3 camalot, contary to the rack advice to a #2. You can do it with nothing bigger than 1.5" but why? You can sew it up if you take a little more.
Good fun, but not a classic. 1.5 stars in my opinion.
Sucks there isn't more than one pitch. I felt the curx was the first few moves and it got easier the higher I got. TAKE A #3 Camalot, you can keep moving it up with you from about halfway until you need a number 2 (I think about 20 feet). There were other, more difficult placements, but why? My rack(from what I remember): a big stopper for the beginning, a yellow Alien for the next move group, a #3 Camalot, a #2 Camalot, 2 #1 Camalots and another yellow Alien. I think I sewed her up good, but I could be wrong. Most all placements bomber. I also remeber there may have been another stopper or two in there. Great moderate route, it seemed like there were tons of rests and stances. Fantastic roadside beer sippin', camp chair sittin', enjoy the sun and the semis route. No trucks on the weekends. Enjoy!
Since there is little else on wall street in this range and because the route is so much fun... this climb is often crowded. Lots of good rests and plenty of pro make for a great moderate route.
Wall Street
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