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Bad Moki Roof 

5.9

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Views: 1,774 page views

Submitted By: Jared Brown on Jan 1, 2002


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Ben setting up for the roof.


Description 

This route is two routes right of Flakes of Wrath. It goes up the thin, slabby right facing corner, out the roof, and up a sandy slab/crack. It felt harder than 5.9, since I got really pumped placing gear in the roof, but none of the moves are that hard, it's just sustained. Don't lower and try not to toprope since there are really deep rope grooves in the roof. One groove just above the lip is deep enough to place pro in.


Protection 

Small cams and maybe a few stoppers for beginning and end, #.75 to #2 camalots for roof section, fixed anchor at top.



Add Photo Photos of Bad Moki Roof
Ben takes a fall at the roof (pussy) but it's a cool mid-fall photo.

Ben takes a fall at the roof (pussy) but it's a co...

Dashiel Kulander climbing towards crux. Photo taken by Charlie Kulander.

Dashiel Kulander climbing towards crux. Photo take...

Shane gettin down with his bad self!

Shane gettin down with his bad self!

Ryan Sayers on the initial slab

Ryan Sayers on the initial slab

Ryan Sayers on the roof

Ryan Sayers on the roof

Ryan Sayers at the lip<br />

Ryan Sayers at the lip


Dan Russell starting the roof

Dan Russell starting the roof

Dan Russell on the roof

Dan Russell on the roof

Done with the Bad Moki!

Done with the Bad Moki!

I found that jammin my right foot in the roof and hands deep in above made the move stable.

I found that jammin my right foot in the roof and ...

pulling on this great but sandy roof

pulling on this great but sandy roof

just starting in to the roof section

just starting in to the roof section

Intense beauty on a rare downpour day.  Bad Moki Roof is in the lower left of this photo.

Intense beauty on a rare downpour day. Bad Moki R...


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 4, 2008
By Charles Dalgleish
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Oct 27, 2002
rating: 5.8-

Love the climb. Makes for an interesting show for the road crowd while you go inverted, or worm your way through the lip of the roof.

Great climb that leaves you crying for more. Gets the blood flowing nicely for flakes of wrath next to it.

The route ain't harder than an eight. Unless you're a gym climber. It's easier than owl rock and sybernetics, both solid eights. Just remember, this is the dessert. The route has also changed a bit in the past 12 years too, since about 6 years ago someone pulled the flake on the left of the roof (where you could rest)but there's still a huge jug at the crux move, bring you're feet up right.

Please don't lower, the rock already has taken serious punishment. Save your rope and the rock and rappel.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 27, 2002

I also agree with the lowering comment. It is easiest to keep your belayer at the anchors for a party of two.

By Kelly Paasch
Dec 11, 2002

Great route! Good place to start getting the arms workin'. You don't even have to lead it! DO belay from the top to respect the rock. Very nice short 5.9 section.

Dont let your rope suck up in the crack or rub excessively in the groves over the roof, be nice and rap the route.

By David Racela
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.9

The first few placements are adequate and the quality of gear placements increases leading up to the roof. This is quite the desert sandbag and woudl rate it 5.9 dues to it's sustained nature. Rap the route and I don't reccomend top roping due to the rock wear from the rope.

Fun and wild

Sandbag at 5.8

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Feb 11, 2004
rating: 5.9+

Burly, very burly. Solid 5.9(several other people have made the same comment).

By Anonymous Coward
Aug 12, 2004

Hard and weird 5.9.

By utfreeclimber
From: Sandy, UT
Mar 21, 2006
rating: 5.9 PG13

I don't know about this one. It's definitely 5.9, maybe 5.8+, once you find the jugs to yard on but even after you pull the roof it's still kinda squirmy and slopey to the finish. One piece of advice... don't try climbing this thing using fist jams and offwidth technique or else this stupid little roof'll feel like a hard 5.11 crack, look for the jugs.

By mark chytka
From: laramie wy
Apr 20, 2006
rating: 5.8+

this route is awesome and if you climb it right it will feel like a solid 5.8 this climb has some awesome hidden features that make pulling the lip easy and fun. the lip is a little sandy and to the anchors is very sandy as well.
Please don't toprope this route it tears up the rock. the grooves in the roof are horrific.

By Mark Michaels
From: Midvale, UT
Sep 28, 2006
rating: 5.9+

Crux is short but stout, in my opinion. Don't know about any secret holds that make this 5.8?? Fun climb, with a touch of sandy groveling to spice it up.

By Greg D
From: denver/steamboat
Apr 15, 2007

Tony, I appreciate your effort replacing the anchor, but I'm confused at your choice of location. Your new bolt does not equalize with any of the other anchors when rapping. Please explain.

By Dane Casterson
From: Boulder
Apr 16, 2007

Tough at 5.9 but i dont have much experience in the desert. Found one jug under the lip of the roof but it got a little desperate for me after that. Am i missing something or is this route a good representation of what desert 5.9 crack moves feel like?

By Jonathan Schumacher
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 20, 2007

Enjoyable climb. Made the mistake of lowering (belayer wasn't up for the climb).... Nightmare...

By Tony Metzger
From: Colorado
Apr 4, 2008
rating: 5.9+

This and Flakes of Wrath are by and far the best routes I've found on Potash. Talk about a blast of a route with great gear. It's not often a slug like myself get's to pull 6ft. roofs on trad gear(or any kind of gear for that matter!). I found a wicked solid kneebar just under the roof which conveniently blocked me from getting any good jams in the roof section. Had to hang on piece and reset. It went right away after I discombobulated myself.
Tony