Paul starting out the roof on the FA of the Southe...
Description
This route climbs the right hand crack system on the Southeast face (the face opposite the mouth of Culvert Canyon).
P1- Start in some kind of loose rock protected by a bolt about 10 feet up. Then climb the first tier of the roof through a thin hands slot to some huge jugs. Then climb the next 10 foot roof with fists to a 5.10 offwidth above. The belay is bolted. 5.11
P2- Climb a 5.10 offwidth/squeeze through a weird loose flake. After the flake the crack splits. Go left to a small ledge. Climb up and left from there through some very scary loose rock to an unprotected 5.8 corner above to a two bolt belay on a big ledge just below the summit.
Scramble to the summit and downclimb (one hard move off the ledge.
Descent- Rappel the route in one 60 meter rappel or two shorter ones.
This route has a few sections of really bad rock, but for the most part is excellent. The 20 foot roof on the first pitch is great!
Protection
A couple sets of cams from #0.5 Camalot to #4 Camalot.
Ben K. and I did this tower this December, we agreed having bigger cams would be nice. Pitch 2 has about 20 feet of WIDE crack. A new 6, or old 5 camalots would work great. Ben had to runout this section for 20+ feet as our biggest was the old 4.5 which worked in sections of the crack that squeezed down.
Yeah, when we did this, I only had up to an old style #4 camalot which did make it a bit runout. What did you think of the sandy part near the top? For me that was the scariest part of the route. Although my memory of it is starting to get vague as it has been a while.
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