Guillaume Dargaud on Another Roadside Distraction.
Description
A.R.D. is the right facing corner just left of Astro Lad. This route begins with some funky moves and then veers left to avoid a short offwidth crack. A large cam, anything from a #4 friend to a #5 camalot, protects the start. The rock on the first half of the route is definitely a little suspect, but the moves are interesting. At mid-height, cut back right to gain the beautiful finger crack. I'd recommend placing a good piece (#2.5 Fr.?) with a long sling before going right. Load up the thin crack with pro and launch into a fun layback with solid finger locks. A couple small footholds provide relief for placing gear during the layback.
The crux is giving up the layback and hoisting onto the sloping ledge just before the anchor. The last half of the route is excellent!
Protection
2 sets cams, something big for the start, #2 yellow TCU's fit the crux lieback perfectly, so three of those come in handy. A couple long slings are helpful, depending on where your gear ends up.
Add CommentComments on Another Roadside Distraction
This description calls for a very liberal use of gear. The route can be led by a 5.10 climber with less than 1 set of cams. Look at the route yourself and make the call, but I'd hate to be weighed down by all the cams this description suggests. Isn't it much nicer to have simply a half dozen cams clipped to your harness? If you REALLY trust your gear, two solid placements in the finger crack should be quite sufficient. There is even a flare in the finger crack where you can get a hand size piece... quite convenient.
I agree, I did this route with a think 5 cams. Idealy I would like Red and Yellow aliens, .3, .4, .5, .75, 1 and 2 Camalots. I of each is plenty (depending how comfortable you are on .10b fingers). 2 sets of cams would be kinda heavy and annoying while laying the top section back. You can see the route great from the ground and decide what you need.
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Apr 19, 2008 rating: 5.10b
a single set is fine, although a second finger sized piece may make someone happy up higher....great route.
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