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Eat the Rich 

5.10c

   

FA: Kyle Copeland, Ron Olevesky
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 790 page views

Submitted By: Joel Hickok on Jul 10, 2002


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dustin cleaning up after the rich...


Description 

Eat the Rich is a sustained, yet short finger crack. At 40ft, the length is perfect training length. The training could be for something like the Ice Cream Parlor Crack in Kane Springs Canyon . The fingers on Eat the Rich are very rattly, you find good locks in some spots, but often have to revert to other techiques to make up for the off-fingers. The crux is the last couple moves at the top where the crack thins and the climb becomes very balancy and sequential. The hardest part of the route, is the fact that it is not a splitter yet barely a dihedral. I'm not sure this climb is all of the 5.10c rating though. Maybe.


Protection 

Short route, small rack. Bring plenty of TCU's if you're squeamish (at least 3 will do). Stoppers. Two hand sized pieces, either 2 and 2.5 friend or .75 and 1 size cam.



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By Eric Odenthal
Sep 28, 2008

found it tricky at the anchor. used blue tcu, 2 yellow, #1 cam, #2 cam, #10 stopper for the top. found it harder than .10c. maybe i'm out of shape.