Setting pro for the crux. Photographer: Rich Serva...
Description
Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.
Protection
Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.
Good route... fairly tricky crux. The crux can be done in a few different ways, but you'll find that out. Bring several TCUs, enough for the middle crux section, plus the crack stays thin after the crux. Definitely be nimble on the flake up higher.
By Charles Vernon From: I'm in transition right now Aug 17, 2002
I thought there were two equally difficult cruxes on the upper section, both where the crack thins out. The moves are rather complex and very aesthetic. I was kinda intimidated leading this but since then I've watched people fall all over it, and they really weren't falling nearly as far as I had envisioned. Go for it!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 5, 2003 rating: 5.10c
Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.
Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.
5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed.
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Mar 15, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right.
This is a great route with a "sporty" crux. I greased 2 or 3 times trying to pull that move. The thin section just below the crux gobbles up a purple splitter cam. After that move the route is a cruiser, but watch the flake at the top.Also,you may want to take some home depot biners or some rap rings for the anchor, the route sees a crap-ton of traffic and the current rings are getting to show it.