Home - Destinations - People - Partners - Forum - Photos - What's New
 ADVANCED
Wall Street
Show routes:
Select route...
30 Seconds Over Potash 
A Fistful of Potash 
Another Roadside Distraction 
Astro Lad 
Baby Blue 
Bad Moki Roof 
Banana Peel 
Big Sky Mud Flaps 
campground crack 
Dark Horse 
Dunn Copeland 
East Of Wrath 
Eat the Rich 
El Cracko Diablo 
Flakes of Wrath 
Frogs of a Feather 
Good, The Bad, and the Potash, The 
High Desert Drifter 
I Love Lucy 
Jug Roof 
Just Another Pretty Face 
Knapping With The Alien 
Lacto Mangulation 
Last Tango in Potash 
Lucy in the Sky with Potash 
Mini Me 
Mystery Route aka Pinhead 
Nervous in Suburbia 
No Fly Zone 
Pedigree Poodles 
Postash Sanction 
Potash Bong Hit 
Potstash 
Puppy Love 
School Room Slabs 
Seibernetics 
Shadowfax 
Shoot Up or Shut Up 
Skeletonic 
Slab 
Static Cling 
Steel Your Face 
Summit Chimney 
Top 40 
Twittin Shinkies 
Unemployment Line (aka Bush Line) 
Visible Panty Line 
Walk on the Wide Side 
Willow Whip 
Zig Zag 

Lucy in the Sky with Potash 

5.10a

   

FA: 
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Views: 924 page views

Submitted By: Wes Allen on Mar 1, 2002


Add Photo  Add Comment 

You and this route  |  Other Opinions (35)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
 Printer Friendly View

Setting pro for the crux.
Photographer: Rich Serva...



Description 

Fun roadside route between 30 seconds over potash and nervous in suburbia. Starts off as hands, moves to fingers, with a cool couple face moves, then back to fingers. Watch out for a couple loose flakes toward the top (someone drew a big chalk "NO" on one of them). They seem pretty solid; just don't pull out on them to hard.


Protection 

Mix of stoppers, small cams, and a couple hand sized cams.



Add Photo Photos of Lucy in the Sky with Potash
The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpole.  Sorden belays on "30 seconds"

The start to "LSP" is behind the flagpole. Sorden...

Above the thin section.<br />Photographer: Rich Servantes

Above the thin section.
Photographer: Rich Servant...


Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where the crack thins out to small fingers.  Some climbers use the arete for help, others use small face holds on the left for help.

Tony Romano protects before sending the crux where...

Tony Bubb gets started on 'Lucy In The Sky With Potash (10a)' Joseffa Meir Belays. Photo by Jenny Schillinger, 2003.

Tony Bubb gets started on 'Lucy In The Sky With Po...

Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Potash (10a)'. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2003.

Jenny Schillinger high on 'Lucy In the Sky With Po...


Add Comment Comments on Lucy in the Sky with Potash
Show which comments
By Joel Hickok
Aug 16, 2002

Good route... fairly tricky crux. The crux can be done in a few different ways, but you'll find that out. Bring several TCUs, enough for the middle crux section, plus the crack stays thin after the crux. Definitely be nimble on the flake up higher.

By Charles Vernon
From: I'm in transition right now
Aug 17, 2002

I thought there were two equally difficult cruxes on the upper section, both where the crack thins out. The moves are rather complex and very aesthetic. I was kinda intimidated leading this but since then I've watched people fall all over it, and they really weren't falling nearly as far as I had envisioned. Go for it!

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2003
rating: 5.10c

Fun route- different cruxes depending on body and finger size. Short people have trouble with using the arete on the right and going up left to the big sloper edge (normal crux). Big people have trouble getting fingers in down even lower. I have small fingers and long arms, but that considered, I still felt this climb was nearly a full number grade harder than some of the 5.10a's at potash.A small stopper (very small) can be placed at your waist at the crux.

Fun and cruxy. Not like the normal desert cracks.

5.10c. Harder if you are short. All 4 members of our party agreed.

By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Mar 15, 2004
rating: 5.10a

Grabbing the arete is awkward but effective. I placed something small at the crux, I believe a small alien. There is a flake near the top of the route that is hollow(Pull down, not out!). Fingers to face climbing. Check out the 5.8 dihedral to the right.

By Brejcha, Matthew
Mar 27, 2004
rating: 5.10a

Gear Alert

This is a great route with a "sporty" crux. I greased 2 or 3 times trying to pull that move. The thin section just below the crux gobbles up a purple splitter cam. After that move the route is a cruiser, but watch the flake at the top.Also,you may want to take some home depot biners or some rap rings for the anchor, the route sees a crap-ton of traffic and the current rings are getting to show it.