Tony Bubb gets a good rest on 'Baby Blue (11-)' on...
Description
This route is located approximately 100' left of '30 Seconds Over Potash' on Wall Street. The route climbs a finger crack in a narrow, left facing dihedral. Eight feet below the chains the dihedral vanishes, leaving a splitter finger crack.
This is a great route for the aspiring 5.11 crack climber. There are numerous face holds and good stemming rests. Excellent.
Excellent route. Fairly consistent climbing, but the route is pretty short. The rests are especially good in the middle section of the climb. There is one final rest at a small flared pod in the dihedral, then the crux is the last stretch to the anchors.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 5, 2003 rating: 5.11a
Fun route. Beta: Don't try to clip the anchors from the layback and god foothold. There is a flake at the top of the crack, level with the bolts that turns out to be a jug. Go for it. Take a lot of .75' inch cams (yellow HB's or grey/blue microcamalots) 2 1" cams, and 1 each 1.5" and 2". You can sew it up with that rack.
Too short to be a classic, but certainly good.
Not a technical 5.11a, but certainly a pumpy one. I have small fingers and did well on locks just to the top. My female climbing parners locked the top too. Fat fingers would make this at the grade, but it will be easier for smaller people.
when you are really pumped near the top and the crack thins out you might be tempted to reach left and just grab the chains. Don't cheat yourself! The pro is easy and often so just climb the last three feet.
Wall Street
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