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Nervous in Suburbia 

5.10a

   

FA: ?
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 2,067 page views

Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Feb 19, 2002


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first bolt on nervous


Description 

I couldn't quite bring myself to give a 50 foot sport route on Wall Street 3 stars, but this is a really really good route all the same. Devious face climbing reminiscent of Eldo (thin edges that slant the wrong way, etc.). It starts 2 climbs left of the prominent and popular LF corner, "30 Seconds Over Potash" (in between is a thin .10a LF corner, Lucy in the Sky with Potash"). The first bolt is a bit high (climb in from the right), but once clipped it will be at your waist for the crux sequence. Above is 5.8-5.9ish climbing with 3 adequately spaced bolts, to a good bolted anchor.


Protection 

4 bolts. I didn't notice any gear placements. A 50-M rope works fine.



Photos of Nervous in Suburbia Slideshow Add Photo
The crux move is really fun.

The crux move is really fun.

Route finding is not a problem...

Route finding is not a problem...

Jables on N.I.S.

Jables on N.I.S.


Comments on Nervous in Suburbia Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
May 5, 2003
rating: 5.10a

I found that climbing in to the first bolt from the right was harder than just going sraight up, then mantling the big edge to stand and clip. This should be done by a solid climber. The sequence after the clip is fun and is reach dependent. A tall person can reach the next two holds and might downgrade the sequence difficulty. This was really fun and mostly positive rather than your typical Navajo formation slopers.

The two bolts side-by side at the 3rd (?) clip were both decent, but one was hangerless. Take up a small stopper to swage this (the nut is still there) and you can back up the clip.

By Matthew
Feb 6, 2005

awesome route, it was the 3rd route i climbed in moab, right after 30 seconds over potash, and lucy in the sky with potash. three classics. this climb felt harder than 10a to me, but i was used to pocketed limestone of AF, so my judgement is rather irrelevent. great climb, recommend it to all. getting to the first bolt can be sketchy if your not solid.

By Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
May 31, 2006

Going straight up from the first bolt can make the next several moves a bit harder. An almost-deadpoint worked best for me. Sporty.

By Jonathan Schumacher
From: Sandy, UT
Jun 20, 2007

Novel climb. I could not get used to the (then-1998) pitons as protection. Interesting moves and a nice exhilarating break from crack climbing!

By Daniel Crescenzo
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.10b

height dependent rating. I am 5'7" so this is like a 10b for me. lot's of fun though. I hope that little crystal of calcite stays for a while.

By John Wilder
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10b PG13

good route, but clip that 1st bolt off the big foot ledge down low...i managed to do another move before clipping and scared the crap out of my 'spotter'!

By Deaun Schovajsa
From: Arvada, CO
Dec 19, 2008

This is a fun route. I first climbed this in 1989, then climbed again about a year ago. I was surprised that the edges were still pretty positive and the climbing hadn't changed much in 18 years.

By Lynn S
Mar 13, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b

Fun route, first clip is off the ground a bit. Moved through the crux by heading left from the first bolt. Good match to the left for hands, small ramp for feet, go for the obvious large rail out left. Engaging climbing above. Belayer needs to be attentive as there is potential for a near grounder if you mess up the moves getting to the second bolt.