Haven't led this (so sad). 20' left of the tree on the black wall is a noticable V-slotted finger crack below a block. Fingers to good jams then move around the block. Rating is 10a and I think it's that all the way (look...a poet and I didn't even know it).
I thought the start was cake. If you put your back against the wall and jam the finger crack with your right hand and bridge your feet across the flaring chimney, you can get a good rest at every stance. Then the actual crux seems to be near the top. It might be easier for me because I have big feet, but since it flares it shouldn't be a problem unless you have tiny feet.
The chimney desctiption above is the best and easiest way to climb the slot. Right shoulder in, right hand in the finger crack, back against wall, left foot bridged. It's a rest the whole way! Take a few minutes to boulder the slot and get the technique down.
For the upper section, it protects fairly well, but it is slightly awkward and powerful climbing. I always find myself bear hugging the pillar at some point because you lose the hand jams for your right hand.
Setting the outside (left) knee onto the front wall and pressing the left foot in back is a good way for smaller folks to avoid foot bridging (which doesn't work if you got small feet!) Sweet route with interesting moves!
Jackie
By Shane Zentner From: Colorado Mar 15, 2004 rating: 5.10a
I got my ass kicked on this thing. Flared chimney with perfect finger/small hand jams to the roof. I found the first twenty five feet hard and sustained. I jammed, stemmed, smeared, and grunted to the roof where the climbing became easier. Pull the roof and use both sides of the crack to get to the anchors. I placed two yellow metolious cams in the finger crack.
Detailed gear beta. Red alien and .5 camalot (purple) in the V-slot. Green alien under the roof. #3 camalot on the right side of the block. Yellow and blue TCU's in the finger crack on the left on the block.
Sustained route, but fun pretty especially the 2nd time around. Pulling up onto the block is by far the easiest part and also has a good rest just before it. I was tempted to give it 3 stars, but given all the other great cracks around Moab I couldn't. Definately worth doing though.
marvellous! the sort of route three parties walked past saying "maybe next time...". a word to the wise: you must do this route...when you've done so you'll know why!cheerio!
I thought it was hard and awkward, especially with the (for me) off-fingers crack in back. Then I realized I was actually secure and not falling out of the thing. Its good to challenge yourself with something a little less straightforward sometimes. Plus, no lines for this one. Enjoy!
Wall Street
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