Wall Street

BETA PHOTO: Top half of Seibernetics from 20m north on the roa...

Description 

Wingate sandstone with roadside (shoulder of the highway) belaying and excellent access from Moab with well over a hundred climbs from 5.4 TRs to 5.12, mixed sport and trad. Actually too many routes with some contrived sport routes in too small an area, but worth a visit. Gets morning to midday sun and in the warm season stays very hot until late in the afternoon. Be wary of descriptions in some guidebooks; anchors have disappeared from some climbs, so carry a selection of trad gear on climbs where you can't see them. Restrooms are available .3 miles N at Jaycee campground and .8 miles S of the Indian Writing sign at the south end of the climbing area.

This is a good area to get a feel for some of the climbing in the area, or if you only have limited time in the area. Expect it to always be crowded, even in full-sun summer conditions. Cool off and refill water later at the (potable) natural spring on the N side of River Road (turn E just south of the bridge on 191 as you head back to Moab, it's on the right in an obvious large paved pullout).

Getting There 

Drive north out of Moab on 191 and cross the bridge over the Colorado; continue 1.3 miles and make the left (south) turn onto Potash Road (279). The climbing areas start about 4.2 miles onto the road (at the 'Park in Designated Areas Only' sign). General parking is in turnouts on both sides of the road for the next mile or so, generally under the climbs themselves. Use caution as 4x4s and trucks generally ignore the 30mph speed limit in the area, and tourists gawk and don't watch the road as they go past. I personally wear a road guard vest while belaying to alert people that I'm not potential target.

Featured Route For Wall Street

Astro Lad 5.11a  UT : Moab Area : Wall Street

Astro Lad is the proud thin crack a few routes to the right of Bad Moki Roof. It is obvious when you see 2 bolts halfway up and a bunch of chalk on the other side of the right facing dihedral. Start with finger locks and liebacking to a good rest and clip 2 bolts to the jamming crux. Sustanined climbing makes this one a battle to the end....[more]

Add Photo Photos of Wall Street

wall street-Moab 510-c	wall street-Moab- 5-10a	Wall Street. Photo by Blitzo.
Looking up Wall Street. Photo by Blitzo.	BETA PHOTO: A look at Wall Street from the top of the Tombston...	Wall Street
Wall Street plus Climber. Photo by Andy Librande...	Wall Steet on a beautiful, and rare rainy day. Si...	Wall Steet on a beautiful, and rare rainy day. Jay...