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Wingate sandstone with roadside (shoulder of the highway) belaying and excellent access from Moab with well over a hundred climbs from 5.4 TRs to 5.12, mixed sport and trad. Actually too many routes with some contrived sport routes in too small an area, but worth a visit. Gets morning to midday sun and in the warm season stays very hot until late in the afternoon. Be wary of descriptions in some guidebooks; anchors have disappeared from some climbs, so carry a selection of trad gear on climbs where you can't see them. Restrooms are available .3 miles N at Jaycee campground and .8 miles S of the Indian Writing sign at the south end of the climbing area.
Drive north out of Moab on 191 and cross the bridge over the Colorado; continue 1.3 miles and make the left (south) turn onto Potash Road (279). The climbing areas start about 4.2 miles onto the road (at the 'Park in Designated Areas Only' sign). General parking is in turnouts on both sides of the road for the next mile or so, generally under the climbs themselves. Use caution as 4x4s and trucks generally ignore the 30mph speed limit in the area, and tourists gawk and don't watch the road as they go past. I personally wear a road guard vest while belaying to alert people that I'm not potential target.
92 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall Street:
30 Seconds Over Potash 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Potstash 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Sport, 60'
Potash Bong Hit 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Bad Moki Roof 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad
Flakes of Wrath 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, TR
Steel Your Face 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport
Lucy in the Sky with Potash 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad
Nervous in Suburbia 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Frogs of a Feather 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad
Big Sky Mud Flaps 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Baby Blue 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad
Astro Lad 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Static Cling 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Last Tango in Potash 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Flakes of Wrath Direct 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R Trad, 1 pitch
Dark Horse 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 70'
Knapping With The Alien 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Chemistry 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 85'
Under the Boardwalk 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b Sport, 60'
Horizontal Mambo 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Wall Street
Under the Boardwalk 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street
Under the Boardwalk begins with a somewhat awkward sequence on the right arete to a high first bolt. Move out onto the face clipping a couple of old 1/2" bolts, trending left to the twin-arete feature. The climb changes shape here becoming thuggy compression climbing up the prow. The angle eases off two bolts before the chains but the climbing stays tenuous until they're clipped....[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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