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DescriptionWingate sandstone with roadside (shoulder of the highway) belaying and excellent access from Moab with well over a hundred climbs from 5.4 TRs to 5.12, mixed sport and trad. Actually too many routes with some contrived sport routes in too small an area, but worth a visit. Gets morning to midday sun and in the warm season stays very hot until late in the afternoon. Be wary of descriptions in some guidebooks; anchors have disappeared from some climbs, so carry a selection of trad gear on climbs where you can't see them. Restrooms are available .3 miles N at Jaycee campground and .8 miles S of the Indian Writing sign at the south end of the climbing area. Getting ThereDrive north out of Moab on 191 and cross the bridge over the Colorado; continue 1.3 miles and make the left (south) turn onto Potash Road (279). The climbing areas start about 4.2 miles onto the road (at the 'Park in Designated Areas Only' sign). General parking is in turnouts on both sides of the road for the next mile or so, generally under the climbs themselves. Use caution as 4x4s and trucks generally ignore the 30mph speed limit in the area, and tourists gawk and don't watch the road as they go past. I personally wear a road guard vest while belaying to alert people that I'm not potential target. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Wall Street:
30 Seconds Over Potash 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Seibernetics 5.8+ Trad
East Of Wrath 5.9 Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Potstash 5.9 Sport, 60 feet
Bad Moki Roof 5.9 Trad
Steel Your Face 5.9+ Sport
Flakes of Wrath 5.9+ Trad, TR
Nervous in Suburbia 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet
El Cracko Diablo 5.10a Trad
Lucy in the Sky with Potash 5.10a Trad
Another Roadside Distraction 5.10b Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet
Eat the Rich 5.10c Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Frogs of a Feather 5.10c Trad
Big Sky Mud Flaps 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Astro Lad 5.11a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Baby Blue 5.11a Trad
Static Cling 5.11a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet
Skeletonic 5.11d PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75 feet
Dark Horse 5.12a Sport, 70 feet
Knapping With The Alien 5.12- Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For Wall Street
Frogs of a Feather 5.10c UT : Moab Area : ... : Wall Street
This route starts to the right of "Shoot up or Shut up". Follow the flake up to the crack. At the top of the crack (look for a bolt) move left and climb up to the chains...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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