Chenault on the 5.9 bulge, third pitch of the Mave...
Description
The Maverick is a really fun 4 pitch route. Stevie Haston freed it at 5.13a, but most climbers aid it at 5.9 A2. It goes clean very easily-don't even think about using a hammer on this line.
Pitch 1 - Climb either 5.8R or A2 to a beautiful 5.13a or A1 splitter fingercrack. 60 feet to a fixed belay.
Pitch 2 - Either climb 5.9+ directly left from the belay, or aid A1 up to a fixed pendulum point and swing left about 15 feet. Both ways reach easy 5.6 mud to a good belay ledge. 50 feet.
Pitch 3 - Climb past a 5.9- bulge to another easier bulge. 50 feet to a killer belay ledge.
Pitch 4 - Climb 5.11 or A2 for 30 feet until it is possible to start free climbing at 5.7 70 feet to the top of the spire.
1 double rope rap from the summit leads back to the land bridge.
Protection
2 sets of RPs(offsets very useful), 2 sets of stoppers, 1 set of cams to 3 inches.
Way cool. The first pitch was a good first aid lead for me, fith perfect rock in the upper seam. The difficult bit of p3 is very short, two brief bulges that could probably be aided. The first is a bit of bridging to a mantel, and the second a high=step to a mantel. Good gear for both. Weirdly, the rock on this route get worse the higher you go. "The desert is very phallic." -my friend Mona J., and this is the most phallic of all desert rocks when viewed from the parking lot.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Jun 3, 2003
My 2 cents --1) Gear: I used only 1 RP on the entire route (pitch 1). I would recommend 2 sets of nuts and a single set of cams to 3". Splitter 2-cams worked well for several placements.
2) The rap from the top back down to the land bridge is roughly 150 ft (45m) and free-hanging. Also, it would be difficult to bail off after the first pitch, as the route angles left.
By Joe Forrester From: Charlottesville, VA Jan 24, 2006
The description for this route should be C2, NOT A2. It is not difficult to climb clean and it would be a bummer to give people the wrong impression.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Jan 25, 2006
Changes made, good idea Joe.
I guess its also relevant to say that this goes free at 5.13ish.
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California Apr 30, 2007
Whoever gets the thin splitter pitch..(1 or 2...depending on where you belay...)you get the "money" pitch;...after that...,... you get the groady leftovers....;...the booby prize. A Harvey Carter Route;...he da Man! And this went free too.....wow.....not by me. Did this with Dave Evans, Cyndie Bransford, and Margy Floyd in Arch 1991. What a cool spire.
The Hindu
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