Gothic Nightmare

Description 

Gothic Nightmare is the first bad mama/jama of a tower that you walk by on the Mystery Towers approach. To add onto John Sherman's description, from the south it looks like a long haired hippie who stuck their finger in a light socket and from the west it looks like a bad, bad tower.

Getting There 

The approach is the same as for the Mystery Towers in general. After the rickety old bridge, park after the convergence of Onion Creek proper and the tributary leading up and to the north. Then follow the wash up, generally trending right. If you are going the right way you will go up a 30ft wet drip with a red rope attached to a block at top. From there keep going until you see two hoodos. Find a way up that hillside and then trend climber's left to the base of the Gothic Nightmare.

The Classics

Featured Route For Gothic Nightmare

Something Wicked This Way Comes 5.9 A2+  UT : Moab Area : ... : Gothic Nightmare

"Something Wicked This Way Comes" is a phenomenal climb up a sweet tower. That being said, it is a bit sandbagged and you will want some Fisher's experience unless you have cajones or ovaries of steel/brass. Here is the breakdown on the pitches. I will refer to the pitches listed in the Desert Rock III book although on our ascent we deviated a bit.P1- Broke this honker of a pitch down into two pitches. P1a- Start in a right facing crack/roof ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT