This route is awesome. It is kinda like Dolofright's big brother (although it is probably quite a bit safer) -- another amazing find by Tom Gilje. It ascends the north face of Disappearing Angel (good for hotter temps) in two pitches... a little bit of crack climbing leads to some pretty rad face climbing.
P1: Climb the gradually widening crack to where it ends, clip a bolt, and pull a burly hand traverse straight left for 15 feet (crux!). The falls are wild and scary, but clean. At the end of the traverse, mantle up, and clip 5 or 6 more bolts as you face climb up to a nice belay ledge. The passage is interesting and unlikely, and all the more so with the fragile holds. One section on this pitch (moving to the anchor) warrants a serious rating. You may wish to clip the first bolt on the second pitch to protect the second. 100', 5.12.
P2: Move right and then up a short, funky corner. From here, traverse back left 30 feet through some seriously crumbly rock to a belay around the corner on the east face of the tower. A short fifth class scramble leads to the summit and a rap anchor. 100', 5.11. Two raps back down the route with a single 60m rope.
Protection
P1: A single set of cams from 0.1 Camalot (00 TCU/Black Alien) to #3 Camalot and a bunch of draws & slings. No wires needed. I highly recommend using double rope technique for this pitch: Bring a single 60m cord, but tie into both ends. After the hand traverse, begin clipping the other end of the rope. There is a good stance after a bolt or two to untie (and drop to the ground) whichever end of the rope is causing the most drag.
P2: Bring the 0.1 and 0.2 Camalots (00 and 0 TCU's) only, and a bunch of draws & slings.
Disappearing Angel
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