This climb, though tiny, still take some thought, planning , skill, time, and patience. At one point , you have to climb through a cave with lots of bat-shit. I placed a pin or two, and also took one very large cam;...it's steep too. It's a cool summit, with a very short approach, and even though the climbing aint' *****,...it's still fun and challenging enough to keep your attention.
Location
In the parking lot , east of the highway, 14 miles South of Moab. Near the tourist stop Hole-in-the-Rock.
Protection
Maybe a few pins, a rack of cams, and at least one very large cam.
I think you may have done a different route... and maybe a FA?
The Smoot route starts from the saddle behind the tower and begins with friction up to the bedding seam. From there it traverses left about 5 feet and then goes straight up a thin splitter to the top.
Was the cave that you're talking about facing the Rest Area bathroom building? If so, then well done. I climbed up into that cave and decided that the big block forming the roof looked too sketchy. I climb on the B-team though. :)
By toddgordon From: Joshua Tree, California May 26, 2007
oops........could be. (that bat-shit section was a bit odd...)...thanks, Brad.
Matt P and I climbed this (Matt leading) via Todd's route on 3/15/08. The anchors on top consisted of a small tree and a pin (could use a little TLC... It is a pretty small tree) but we did add new cordage and a rap ring. I'd say bring some webbing just in case. Fun end to a great weekend.
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