This supposedly goes free, but lots of folks seem to doubt it and after climbing it I wonder too. Satan's Revenge looks like a much better free climb on this rock, and this route is a good moderate outing.
P1: Start from the notch between the tower and the rimrock behind it. Make a spooky free move onto a ledge - a fall would be bad and a boost from your partner helps. Clip a couple of old hangerless bolts to a fat bolt over the roof, a few more closely spaced hangerless bolts, and then free climb right to a crack. Fingers and hands lead to a good ledge with a possible belay.
P2: Climb a thin crack past some old hangerless bolts(why?) until the crack jogs left and widens to 4 camalot size. If you hate this size two big pieces are prudent. The belay is about 10' below the top of the tower and consists of one drilled angle and one crappy bolt. The top is an easy scramble on sugary rock.
One double rope rap gets you to the ground. An ok route with lots of old unnecessary bolts, but the summit is cool.
Protection
6 rivet hangers, double set of cams from TCUs to 4 camalots. If breaking this into 2 pitches, 3 and 3.5 camalots are needed to set up a belay.
I was updating the anchor this morning and I suffered a loss. After drilling the first hole, I absentmindedly clipped my drill into the wrong piece of sling on the anchor... it was only tied in with an overhand or something. Anyway, Hanoi-Hilti-II took the 100 footer. He is no more. So, there is one 1/2 inch by 4 inch stainless with chain at the anchor... it works with the ratty slings and is certainly stronger than the 1/4 inch stardrive and baby angle that is the previous anchor.
The route is ok... nice views. A double set is plenty and I dont think extra 5's are necessary. A single 60 meter rope will get you down.
Disappearing Angel
RSS Feed
